Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
This beautifully-wrought specimen of Rhenish needlework, most likely
done at Cologne, consists of twenty-six small figures of winged angels
robed in various liturgical vestments, and playing musical instruments
of all sorts--some wind, some stringed. Of these celestial beings
several wear copes over their white albs; others have over their albs
narrow stoles, in some instances crossed upon the breast as priests,
but mostly belt-wise as deacons: other some are arrayed in the
sub-deacon’s tunicle, and the deacon’s dalmatic: thus vested they hold
the instrument which each is playing; and no one but a German would
have thought of putting into angels’ hands such a thing as the long
coarse aurochs’ horn wherewith to breathe out heavenly music. On the
front orphrey are ten of such angels; on the one made in the shape of
a cross, for the back of the chasuble, there are sixteen. At both ends
of the short beam or transom of this cross we find admirably-executed
armorial bearings. The first blazon--that to the left--shows a shield
_gules_ an inescutcheon _argent_, over all an escarbuncle of eight
rays _or_, for CLEVES; dimidiated by, _or_ a fess checky _argent_
and _gules_, for MARCK; surmounted by a helmet _argent_ crested with
a buffalo’s head cabosed _gules_, having the shut-down bars of the
helmet’s vizor thrust out through the mouth of the animal, which is
crowned ducally _or_ the attire _argent_ passing up within the crown;
and the mantlings _gules_. As if for supporters, this shield has
holding it two angels, one in a tunicle, the other in a cope. The
second shield--that on the right hand,--shows _gules_ an inescutcheon
_argent_, over all, an escarbuncle of eight rays _or_, crested and
supported as the one to the left, thus giving, undimidiated, the
blazon of the then sovereign ducal house of CLEVES.
All these ornaments, armorial bearings, angels, flowers, and foliage,
are not worked into, but wrought each piece separately, and afterwards
sewed on the crimson silk ground, which is the original one; they
are “cut work.” The angels’ figures are beautifully done, and their
liturgic garments richly formed in gold, as are the leaves and stems
of the wreaths bearing large silver flowers. From its heraldry we may
fairly assume that the chasuble, from which these handsome orphreys
were stripped, belonged to the domestic chapel in the palace of the
Dukes of Cleves, and had been made for one of those sovereigns whose
wife was of the then princely stirring house of De la Marck.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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