Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Silk Damask; ground, purple; pattern, a quatrefoil, within another,
charged with a cross-like floriation, with a square white centre,
surmounted by two eagles with wings displayed, upholding in their beaks
a royal crown, all in green. Italian, early 15th century. 14 inches by
11½ inches.
Though the silk be poor the design is in good character, and the stuff
would seem to have been wrought either at Florence or Lucca, for some
princely German house.
7058.
Piece of Silk Damask; ground, red and gold; pattern, a pair of ostrich
feathers, springing from a conventional flower, and drooping over an
artichoke-like floriation, of a tint once light green, and shaded dull
white. Spanish, 15th century. 14¾ inches by 7½ inches.
A curious mixture of silk, wool, linen thread and gold very sparingly
employed. The ostrich feather is so unusual an element of ornamental
design, especially in woven stuffs, that we may deem it a kind of
remembrance of the Black Prince who fought for a Spanish king, Don
Pedro the Cruel, at the battle of Navaretta, or Najarra, if not having
a significance of the marriage of Catherine of Arragon, first with
our Prince Arthur, eldest son of Henry VII, and after his death, with
his younger brother, Henry VIII, each of whom was in his time Prince
of Wales, whose badge became one or more ostrich feathers. In old
English church inventories drawn up towards the middle and the end
of the 15th century, mention is often found of vestments made of a
Flemish stuff, called Dorneck, from the name in Flanders for the city
of Tournay, where it was made, but spelt in English various ways, as
Darnec, Darnak, Darnick, and even Darnep. Such an inferior kind of
tissue woven of thin silk mixed with wool and linen thread, was in
great demand, for every-day wear in poor churches in this country.
Though not wrought at Tournay, the present specimen affords a good
example of that sort of stuff called Dorneck, which, very probably,
was introduced into Flanders from Spain. Besides the present textile,
another, figured in the “Mélanges d’Archéologie,” t. iii. pt. xxxiii,
furnishes an additional instance in which the ostrich feather is
brought into the design.
7059.
Green Silk Damask; pattern, floriations and short lengths of narrow
bands arranged zig-zag. Italian, 17th century. 8 inches by 6½ inches.
An extraordinary but not pleasing pattern.
7060.
Silk and Linen Damask; ground, creamy white; pattern, in light brown,
once pink, a conventional artichoke. Italian, 16th century. 1 foot 5
inches by 9½ inches.
The warp is thread, but still the texture looks well.
7061.
Silk and Gold Damask; ground, light green silk; pattern, large
vine-leaves and stars, with a border of griffins and fleur-de-lis, in
gold. Sicilian, 14th century. 10¼ inches square.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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