Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
This curious remnant of textiles, wrought on purpose for liturgical
use, shows in places another combination of lines, or rather of
a digamma, so as to form a sort of cross: and stuffs so diapered
were called by Greek, and after them by Latin, Christian writers,
“gammadia.” It was a pattern taken up by the Sicilian and South
Italian looms, whence it spread so far north as England, where it may
be found marked amid the ornaments designed upon church vestments
figured in many graven brasses. From us it got the new name of
“filfod” through the idea of “full foot,” which by some English
mediæval writers was looked upon as an heraldic charge, and is now
called “cramponnée.” During the 13th century, in this country,
ribbon-like textiles, for the express purpose of making stoles
and maniples to be worn at the altar, were extensively wrought,
and constituted one of the articles of trade in London, for a
distinguished citizen of hers, John de Garlandia, or Garland, tells
us:--“De textis vero fiunt cingula, et crinalia divitum mulierum et
stole(ae) sacerdotum.” These “priests’ stoles,” in all likelihood,
were figured with the gammadion or filfod pattern; and, perhaps, many
of them which are to be found in foreign sacristies to this day came
from London.
The piece before us is figured in Dr. Bock’s “Geschichte der
Liturgischen Gewänder des Mittelalters,” 4 Lieferung, pt. iii. fig. 3.
8252.
Piece of Silk and Gold Tissue, lilac-purple with fleur-de-lis diapering
in gold. South Italian, end of 14th century. 5 inches by 4½ inches.
This stuff seems to have been made expressly for French royalty,
perhaps some member of the house of Anjou.
8253.
Piece of Dark Blue Silk, with pattern in yellow, consisting of centre
ornaments surrounded by four crowned birds like parrots. South Italian,
14th century. 9 inches by 7 inches.
8254.
Piece of Silk Net, embroidered with crosslets and triangular ornaments
charged with chevrons in lilac and green. North Italian, 14th century.
7 inches by 5 inches.
This is a good specimen of a kind of cobweb weaving, or “opus
araneum,” for which Lombardy, especially its capital, Milan, earned
such a reputation at one time.
8255.
Piece of Silk, crimson ground, with pattern in violet and green,
consisting partly of wyverns. Sicilian, end of 13th century. 10 inches
by 5 inches.
Another good specimen of the Sicilian loom, and very likely one of
those “cendals” for which Palermo was once so famous.
8256.
Piece of Silk, pink-buff colour, with pattern, in green, of vine-leaves
and grapes. South Italian, middle of 14th century. 8 inches by 5½
inches.
The design of this silk is remarkably elegant, and exemplifies the
ability of the weaver-draughtsmen of those times.
8257.
Piece of Crimson Silk, damasked with a pattern in which occur leopards
and eagles pouncing upon antelopes. Sicilian, end of 13th century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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