Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
_Venice_ does not seem to have been at any time, like Sicily and
Lucca, smitten with the taste of imitating in her looms at home the
patterns which she saw abroad upon textile fabrics, but appears to have
borrowed from the Orientals only one kind of weaving cloth of gold: the
yellow chasuble at Exeter Cathedral, A.D. 1327, figured with beasts,
cum bestiis crocei coloris,[232] is the solitary instance we know,
upon which she wove, like the east, animals upon silks. She, however,
set up for herself a new branch of textiles, and wrought for church
use certain square webs of a crimson ground on which she figured, in
gold, or on yellow silk, subjects taken from the New Testament, or the
persons of saints and angels. These square pieces were as they yet are,
employed, when sewed together in squares as frontals to altars, but
when longwise much more generally as orphreys to chasubles, copes and
other vestments. Of such stuffs must have been those large orphreys
upon a dalmatic and tunicle, at St. Paul’s Cathedral, London, A.D.
1295.[233]
Though not of so early a date as the thirteenth century, there are
in this collection specimens of this Venetian web belonging to the
sixteenth, which are very fine, No. 5900, p. 112, represents the
resurrection of our Lord; so does No. 8976, p. 271, while No. 8978, p.
272, presents us with the coronation of the Virgin, and No. 8976, the
Virgin and the Child, as also No. 1335, p. 71. Far below in worth are
the same kind of webs wrought at Cologne, as will be noticed just now.
Any one that has ever looked upon the woodcuts done at Venice in
the sixteenth century, such as illustrate, for instance, the Roman
Pontifical, published by Giunta, the “Rosario della G. V. Maria,” by
Varisco, and other such religious books from the Venetian press, will,
at a glance, find on the webs before us from that state, the self-same
style and manner in drawing, the same broad, nay, majestic fold and
fall of drapery, and in the human form the same plumpness, and not
unfrequently with the facial line almost straight; and there, but more
especially about the hands and feet, a somewhat naturalistic shape;
so near is the likeness in design that one is led to think that the
men who cut the blocks for the printers also worked for the weavers of
Venice, and sketched out the drawings for their looms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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