Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
What in one age, and at a particular place, happened to be so well
made, and hence became so eagerly sought for, at a later period, and
in another place, got to be much better wrought and at a lower price.
Time, indeed, changed the name of the market, but did not alter in any
great degree either the quality of the material, or the style of the
design wrought upon it. All over the kingdom of the Byzantine Greeks
the loom had to change its gearing very little. The Saracenic loom,
whether in Asia, Africa, or Spain, was always Arabic, though Persia
could not forget her olden Zoroasterian traditions about the “hom”
or tree of life separating lions, and having all about lion-hunting
cheetahs, and birds of various sorts.
With regard to the whole of Asia, we learn that its many peoples,
from the earliest times, knew how not only to weave cloth of gold,
but figure it too with birds and beasts. Almost two thousand years
afterwards, Marco Polo, in the thirteenth century, found exactly
the very same kinds of textile known in the days of Darius still
everywhere, from the shores of the Mediterranean to far Cathay, in
demand and woven. What he says of Bagdad, he repeats in fewer words
about many other cities.[266]
In finding their way to England these fabrics had given them not so
often the names of the places where they had been wrought, but, if not
in all, at least in most instances, the names of the seaports in the
Mediterranean where they had been shipped.
[265] Mon. Anglic. ii. 221.
[266] I Viaggi di Marco Polo, ed. A. Bartoli, Firenze, 1863.
For beautifully wrought and figured silk, of the few terms that still
outlive the mediæval period, one is _Damask_.
China, no doubt, was the first country to ornament its silken webs
with a pattern. India, Persia and Syria, then Byzantine Greece,
followed, but at long intervals between, in China’s footsteps. Stuffs
so figured brought with them to the west the name “diaspron” or diaper,
bestowed upon them at Constantinople. But about the twelfth century,
so very far did the city of Damascus, even then long celebrated for
its looms, outstrip all other places for beauty of design, that her
silken textiles were eagerly sought for everywhere, and thus, as often
happens, traders fastened the name of Damascen or Damask upon every
silken fabric richly wrought and curiously designed, no matter whether
it came or not from Damascus. After having been for ages the epithet
betokening all that was rich and good in silk, “Samit” had to be
forgotten, and Diaper, from being the very word significant of pattern,
became a secondary term descriptive of merely a part in the elaborate
design on Damask.
_Baudekin_, that sort of costly cloth of gold spoken of so much during
so many years in English literature, took, as we said before, its
famous name from Bagdad.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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