Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
But a very few people, at the present moment, have the faintest idea
about the labour, the money, the length of time often bestowed of old
upon embroideries which had been sketched as well as wrought by the
hands of men, each in his own craft the ablest and most cunning of that
day. In behalf of this our own land, we may gather evidences strewed
all over the present Introduction: as a proof of the self-same doings
elsewhere, may be set forth a remarkable passage given, in his life
of Antonio Pollaiuolo, by Vasari, where he says: “For San Giovanni in
Florence there were made certain very rich vestments after the design
of this master, namely, two dalmatics, a chasuble, and a cope, all
of gold-wove velvet with pile upon pile--di broccato riccio sopra
riccio--each woven of one entire piece and without seam, the bordering
and ornaments being stories from the life of St. John, embroidered with
the most subtile mastery of that art by Paolo da Verona, a man most
eminent of his calling, and of incomparable ingenuity: the figures are
no less ably executed with the needle than they would have been if
Antonio had painted them with the pencil; and for this we are largely
indebted to the one master for his design, as well as to the other
for his patience in embroidering it. This work took twenty-six years
for its completion, being wholly in close stitch--questi ricami fatti
con punto serrato--which, to say nothing of its durability, makes the
work appear as if it were a real picture limned with the pencil; but
the excellent method of which is now all but lost, the custom being
in these days to make the stitches much wider--il punteggiare piu
largo--whereby the work is rendered less durable and much less pleasing
to the eye.”[331] These vestments may yet be seen framed and glazed in
presses around the sacristy of San Giovanni.[332] Antonio died A.D.
1498. The magnificent cope once belonging to Westminster Abbey, and
now at Stonyhurst and exhibited here, A.D. 1862, is of one seamless
piece of gorgeous gold tissue figured with bold wide-spreading foliage
in crimson velvet, pile upon pile, and dotted with small gold spots;
it came, it is likely, from the same loom that threw off these San
Giovanni vestments, at Florence.”
[331] Vite de’ piu Eccellenti Pittori, &c., di G. Vasari, Firenze, F.
Le Monnier, 1849. t. v. pp. 101, 102; English translation, by Mrs.
Foster, t. ii. p. 229.
[332] Ib.
OUR OLD ENGLISH OPUS CONSUTUM, OR CUT WORK,
in French, “appliqué,” is a term of rather wide meaning, as it takes in
several sorts of decorative accompaniments to needlework.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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