Thames Valley Villages, Volume 1 (of 2)Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
Thames Valley Villages, Volume 1 (of 2)
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Thames Valley (England)
Clifton Hampden, lying between the Wittenhams, is on the Oxfordshire
side of the river. If there were ever a competition as to which is the
prettiest village on the Thames below Oxford, surely Clifton Hampden
would be bracketed with Sonning for first place. There is this chief
difference between the two; that Sonning is a considerable village
and Clifton a small one. They are alike in that they both possess a
bridge, but different again in the fact that while Sonning bridge is
of the eighteenth century, and with only its quaintness to recommend
it, the bridge at Clifton is a beautiful building of the nineteenth,
in the mediæval style, one of the most successful on the river, and
only lacking the element of age. There is, sooth to say, _no_ village
at Clifton Hampden; just a bridge, a church, the lovely old thatched
Barley Mow Inn, and a few scattered cottages, generally, in the summer
months, with an artist in front of each, rendering it in the medium of
water or of oil, upon paper or canvas. And the grassy banks come down
to the river delightfully, and over on the Oxfordshire side rises the
charming little Transitional Norman and Decorated church upon the abrupt
sandstone bluff or cliff that gives Clifton its name. One may linger
away contented afternoons here, perhaps with a book, perhaps watching
from the bridge the minnows or the dace, or with amusement noting the
evolutions of the flotillas of ducks and ducklings that come and go in
company, like miniature navies. To see a duck dip down and stand on its
head in the water is to watch a humorous feat: possibly, according to the
observations of some naturalists, to witness a tragedy, for it would seem
that the ferocious pike have not infrequently been known to seize by the
head a duck so gymnastically exercising, and thus to make an end of it.
The quality of Clifton Hampden church is shown, as to its exterior, by
the accompanying illustration; which also discloses the steep steps
leading up to it, and the elaborate churchyard cross—all works of 1907.
The Hampdens, who once owned the manor, have no memorials here, and
the greatly-restored condition of the church is due to the Hucks-Gibbs
family. The Transitional Norman south nave-arcade, with round-headed
arches, simply sculptured capitals, and enormous bases to the columns, is
entirely delightful: the plain painted north arcade, without capitals,
poor and mean by comparison. In the church was once an ancient leaden
font, of the Dorchester and Long Wittenham type, but this was sold for
old metal by a vicar who thought it ugly!
[Illustration: CLIFTON HAMPDEN.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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