Yet I shiver even now as I think of that indescribable, penetrating cold, for the blood under my tropical skin seemed to stagnate and congeal. I thought of Dr. Johnson’s remark about his visit to the Hebrides, “worth seeing, but not worth going to see.” But he was such an old egotistic exaggerator that I do not accept everything he says as gospel true. Yet one saying of his I could heartily endorse, remembering the tips I had to make in England, worse than the baksheesh among the natives in India. “Let me pay Scotland one just praise—there was no officer gaping for a fee; this could have been said of no city on the English side of the Tweed.” The constant tips to every one at every turn is a real nuisance. England may boast of her freedom, yet all her people are in the bonds of slavery to the tipping custom. I fell in with a couple of young English gentlemen just starting for China to spend their holidays. They said they could better afford a foreign tour than to accept invitations from their friends, as it would be less expensive, for at each house they might visit, they would have to tip everybody, not with shillings, but with sovereigns. My American friend spoke of this as one of the fads that the Anglo-maniacs were trying to introduce into his country, because it was good form, “like the English, you know.” Anent this, I must mention a couple of incidents, though not about “tips,” rather of sharp tricks, which reflect on myself. On our steamer reaching port I was approached by a well-dressed man, who handed me his card, saying that he was connected with Grinder & Co., my bankers, and that he would be pleased to assist me in every way. I told him that I had only a small amount of luggage, that I myself could easily look after, but as his offer was so friendly I could not abruptly decline his services, so he gave an order to a porter to carry my baggage to a cab. A few days afterwards, when I went to look over my account at the Grinders & Co., I found that I was charged twenty-five shillings for the distinguished services of this very plausible clerk. I do not recall the items exactly, but I think there was a shilling for the bit of card he offered me. Another. Just after arriving at my first lodgings in Craven street, Strand, and had dressed to go out to some restaurant for dinner, the man of the house, with the most saccharine smile and tone of voice, said that they were just about to sit down to a family dinner, and he would be pleased to have me join them. An uncle or aunt, if I had either, could not have invited me with more grace and suavity. It was a very good dinner, and I tried to do the agreeable in conversation, telling them about India, as it seemed I ought to give some return for their kindness, but I had a different feeling when I came to settle my bill, and found myself charged with four shillings for the dinner.