He made no objections to my questions, and, to my delight, offered
to give me a demonstration if the ritual of the women who held the
secrets would consent to exhibit them. At noon I was taken to a kind of
tribal palaver and the matter was put to a species of test or judgment
by lot. A young girl was blindfolded and given a basket containing
short and long sticks. Certain prayers and incantations were performed
and she passed into a semi-trance state.
My permission depended on her selection of a majority of short sticks,
but as I could not see the sticks, and she was in a state of light
hypnosis, I made occasion to recite one or two resounding Hebrew charms
and laid my hands on her head; after that, all was easy. Her will
obeyed mine and she selected the sticks as I desired. It was almost an
unanimous election.
When dusk fell with all its African suddenness, the rising moon hung
like a blazing buckler in the sky. Dogs barked in answer to the distant
hill jackals and the acrid smoke of the camel-dung fires hung like a
sour fog about the camp.
We left the village and went about a quarter of a mile along the
hillside to the local buryingplace, following a stony track that was
little more than a dried watercourse. At the head of our little
procession were two men with flaming argan wood torches tied to long
canes, behind them came four men with long silver-decorated Remington
rifles, and then the little group of sorceresses followed by myself and
the elders.
The burial ground was a scanty clearing among the scrub and dwarf oaks,
and bushes encroached upon the outer graves. Each tomb was marked by
a stone monolith or pillar, rough-hewn, with a knob at the top in
pursuance of the Muslim custom. The graves radiated in circles from the
central stone, whereon fluttered little bundles of rags and similar
votive offerings.
We made our way to a recent grave, which was rapidly opened by the men,
disclosing, a bare two feet beneath the surface, the bent body of a man
buried in sitting posture. It was a ghoul-like business and the whole
air of the graveyard carried the tainted scent of the dreadful carrion
they were unearthing.
In the meanwhile, the women were busy, and from behind the tombs
brought forth skulls which they anointed with some strange grease and
set on sticks in a circle round the central altar.
At last the corpse, in its foul, earth-stained wrappings, was exhumed
and carried in a piece of sheeting to the altar. The men who had served
as guards and grave diggers then withdrew out of earshot, and the
ceremonies began.
Fire was applied to the circle of skulls and they began to burn. I
noticed that the eyes and ear sockets were stuffed with old rags which
served as wicks for the unclean oil. They flared smokily, sending off a
foul-scented sooty smoke.
The women began to chant their monotonous wailing rhymes, and their
leader rocked to and fro leading this strange chorus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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