In Winnemucca the car was shunted back and forth for an hour, but at
nightfall we were off on the long climb to the summit. I climbed hand
over hand to the hatchway, and after a cautious survey of the
surroundings, drew myself out and perched on the roof of the car. The
Overland Limited shot past, the roof covered with the crouching forms of
hoboes, thick as barnacles on an old pier. The desolate expanse of
desert seemed full of mystery, as the long train, dotted here and there
with lanterns, crawled like a gigantic snake up the steep grade. Far
ahead two engines coughed and laboured, the black smoke rolling in great
billows from their stacks. As I realised that we were nearing the
boundary of California a great contentment filled my soul. Thus I
revelled in thoughts of home, while the cool night wind fanned my face
and the Big Dipper swung across the northern sky and the speeding wheels
clanked a cheerful refrain.
Early next morning the brakeman made us a visit and said we would be in
Sparks before noon, where we must make another change.
Just outside the city limits we dropped off, and as guests of the
trainmen were soon eating our first restaurant meal for months. About
two o’clock we wandered to the outskirts of town, for it was useless to
attempt to catch a freight in daylight. We came to an irrigating ditch
lined with a tall growth of weeds, and slipping off our footgear, were
soon paddling about like a couple of kids in the swift running water.
Late in the day we cooked and ate a meal, took a farewell wash in the
stream and returned to the railroad yard. Word had gone forth not to
molest us, so we boarded the night freight without difficulty. The only
available place was a cattle car loaded high with lumber. The end door
was unlocked and there was quite a space between the piles of boards and
the roof of the car. I settled myself in a corner with back against the
siding, and Dan lay at my feet.
It was pitch dark when the train clanked through the streets of Reno. As
we drew slowly out of town, dim forms appeared, and hoboes began piling
into the car through both doors. In the darkness I could sense the
presence of a large number of men. Two lads curled down at my right,
their voices proclaiming their youthfulness. On the left two hoboes lay
so close that I could have touched them. They had come from a long ride
on a limited passenger and were completely exhausted. A group of men in
the far end of the car began smoking, and as each match flared, some
face would stand out in bold relief. They talked with perfect
comradeship, and though they were totally unaware of the presence of a
woman, there was little to complain of in their conversation. In fact, I
can truthfully say that I heard more profane language in one year’s
attendance at Medical College than on this entire trip.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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