After ordering for dinner every thing that the house was enabled to
supply, they made their way in the first place (as it could only be
seen between 11 and 1) to Blenheim; the princely splendours of which
were not only costly in themselves, but, as our hero soon found,
costly also to the sight-seer. The doors in the ~suite~ of
apartments were all opposite to each other, so that, as a crimson
cord was passed from one to the other, the spectator was kept
entirely to the one side of the room, and merely a glance could be
obtained of the Raffaelle, the glorious Rubens's,* the Vandycks, and
the almost equally fine Sir Joshuas. But even the glance they had
was but a passing one, as the servant trotted them through the rooms
with the rapidity of locomotion and explanation of a Westminster
Abbey verger; and he made a fierce attack on Verdant, who had lagged
behind, and was short-sightedly peering at the celebrated "Charles
the First" of Vandyck, as though he had lingered in order to
surreptitiously appropriate some of the tables, couches, and other
trifling articles that ornamented the rooms. In this way they went
at railroad pace through the ~suite~ of rooms and the library, - where
the chief thing pointed out appeared to be a grease-mark on the floor
made by somebody at somebody else's wedding-breakfast, - and to the
chapel, where they admired the ingenuity of the sparrows and other
birds that built about Rysbrach's monumental mountain of marble to
the memory of the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough; - and then to the
so-called "Titian room" (shade of mighty Titian, forgive the insult!)
where they saw the Loves of the Gods represented in the most
unloveable manner,+ and where a flunkey lounged lazily at the door,
and, in spite of Mr. Bouncer's expostulatory "chaff," demanded
half-a-crown for the sight.
Indeed, the sight-seeing at Blenheim seemed to be a system of
half-crowns. The first servant would take them a little way, and
then say, "I don't go any further, sir; half-a-crown!" and hand them
over to servant number two, who, after a short interval, would pass
them on (half-a-crown!) to the servant who shewed the chapel
(half-a-crown!), who would forward them on to the "Titian" Gallery
(half-a-crown!), who would hand them over to the flower-garden
(half-a-crown!),who would entrust them to the rose-garden
(half-a-crown!), who would give them up to another, who shewed parts
of the Park, and
---
* Dr Waagen says that the Rubens collection at Blenheim is only
surpassed by the royal galleries of Munich, Vienna, Madrid, and Paris.
+ The ladies alone would repel one by their gaunt ugliness, their
flesh being apparently composed of the article on which the pictures
are painted, leather. The only picture not by "Titian" in this room
is a Rubens, - "the Rape of Proserpine" - to see which is well worth
the half-crown ~charged~ for the sight of the others.
-=-
[AN OXFORD FRESHMAN 117]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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