The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
foot of the hill on which it stands, the fields are laid off with walks
and garnished with groves, showing that the people of these regions
delight in those enjoyments that indicate culture and taste.
The city of Freyburg, where we passed the night, is remarkable as being
the seat of the chief power of Romanism in Switzerland. It has as many
as ten convents and monasteries and high seminaries of learning. The
suspension bridge is said to be the longest in the world, nine hundred
feet: it is not so beautiful as the one at Niagara, but may be longer.
The organ of Freyburg has been long celebrated as one of the best
instruments in the world, and there is probably but one superior to it.
Yet the performances upon it are so unequal, varying with the skill or
the humor of the organist, that very different reports are made of it by
parties hearing it at different times. Perhaps it was my good fortune to
hear it under circumstances the most favorable. Certainly the music was
the most effective of any that I have ever heard, more so than any I
expect to hear till the “nobler, sweeter strains” of the divine melodies
break on the spirit’s ear among the harmonies of heaven.
The cathedral dates back to 1285. Over the front entrance is a queer old
bas-relief, representing the last judgment. The Father, God himself,
done in stone, sits aloft, with angels blowing trumpets around him. At
his feet, on the right, the righteous are led off in triumph to their
places in glory, and on the left a devil is weighing souls in a pair of
scales; another devil, with the head of a pig, is carrying a lot of poor
sinners in a basket on his back, and is about to cast them into a great
kettle where others are boiling, while little imps are blowing the fires
with bellows, and hell itself, represented by the jaws of a monster,
yawns near, and Satan sits on his throne above. We studied this strange
device until the evening shades were too dense to permit us to see it,
and then entered the portals. Darkness and silence reigned within. Two
candles on the columns near the altar gave all the “dim religious
light,” that only served to deepen the gloomy grandeur of the venerable
pile. A few persons had already been admitted, and were conversing in
whispers, invisible and scarcely audible in the distance. We sat as far
away from the organ as we could, and where it was probable it could be
heard to the best advantage. As the hour approached (it is played from
half-past eight to half-past nine every evening), the strangers, who
pause here on their travels, entered in little groups, and then a large
crowd of gentlemen, who, as I learned the next day, were the teachers,
professors, and other literary men of Switzerland, came in together,
filling every available place. They were in Freyburg in convention, and
by invitation were now present to enjoy the musical feast. It may be
that owing to this unusual attendance of the learned and cultivated men
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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