The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
After passing the little village of Brienz,—where the English-speaking
landlord of the Bear (Ours) will entertain you well if you give him a
call,—we soon began the ascent of the Brunig mountain. It gives you at
once some conception of the immense expenditure of money, time, and
science of engineering required to construct these Swiss roads. As
smooth as those of Central Park, and as solid, they are made to wind
around and about so as to render the ascent gradual. Sometimes we seem
to be returning on our track, but always singing _Excelsior_, and yet so
gradually that the strain is not severe on the horses, and you feel no
sense of danger as you are borne along without jolting or fatigue. And
what a lovely vale is every moment in view at the foot of the mountain!
A rapid river sweeps through it, and by its side a white, smooth road:
sweet Swiss homes in the midst of green farms dot the valley, that may
well be the pride of the whole land. Now we are looking down into the
Vale of Meyringen. For two or three hours we have seen in the distance a
splendid cascade, and now that we have approached it, we find it the
lower leap of the celebrated Reichenbach Falls, and into the valley so
many are pouring constantly, that you are not surprised to learn the
inhabitants have often suffered sadly from the swelling of these
mountain torrents, which come down so rapidly and fearfully as to bear
away every thing before them. A hundred years ago, almost the whole
village of Meyringen was buried twenty feet deep in the sand and rocks
and rubbish. A mark on one of the principal buildings shows the height
to which the waters rose in that memorable deluge. And as we are wound
along up the Brunig, we enter the clouds and find the rain descending,
so that we are obliged to shut the carriage up till we pass through the
cloud, and emerge as we come down into a sunnier region. At the foot,
the village of Lungern offers us dinner, and we rest. One of my friends
had been suffering all day with toothache, and had at last reached the
reckless determination to have it out, if a dentist, or even a
blacksmith, could be found in the place. I admired his courage more than
his discretion, but probably had only a feeble sense of his suffering.
The village doctor was summoned, a fine-looking, self-reliant,
intelligent young man. The landlord stood with solemn face at the door
of the room where the dread operation was to be performed. The landlady
wrung her hands in sympathy. The head waiter held the sufferer’s head. I
held my peace. In a moment it was done! And then the charge, it was one
franc! twenty cents!! Think of that, ye man tormentors, who, with
forceps dire, tear a tooth by the roots from one’s bleeding jaw and
charge him two dollars, or five!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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