The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
Where the Nahe flows into the Rhine, there or about there, stands
Bingen, and no amount of pretty poetry that has been said or sung about
“Bingen on the Rhine” can make it any thing but a dull, dry, flat, dusty
village, and horribly disagreeable at noon on a scorching hot day, such
as this. We footed it half a mile from the station under a blazing sun,
as there was no way to ride, and found a cool shade, while waiting for
the steamboat to come up the river. The sight was romantic and
picturesque. In the water, a little way above us, stand the ruins of
Bishop Hatto’s tower, the story of which is too familiar to be told
again. He had hoarded corn in a time of famine, and the rats pursued him
for his wickedness. He fled to this tower in the river. The rats swam
out to it, ran up the walls, found their way in, and cleaned the
Bishop’s bones for him. Southey has done the story into a ballad.
[Illustration: ON THE RHINE.]
The Castle of Ehrenfels is on the side of the hill across the river, and
the Rudesheimer vineyards on the hill-sides furnish that celebrated
variety. All the Rhine wines are named from the castle, chateau, or
neighborhood where they are made. The flavor depends more on the soil
than on the art with which the wine is made. The process is
substantially the same in all the vineyards, but the flavor of the
liquor is decidedly different. The hill-sides are so steep, and the
rains are sometimes so heavy, that the soil is often carried down into
the bed of the rivers. It can then be recovered only by scooping it from
the bottom, and carrying it up in baskets. This is done every year. We
might fear it would be spoiled by being carried into the river, but the
loss of strength is not enough to alter the nature of the original. Some
of the brands are famous, and the prices vary accordingly; but the
cheapness of these wines here on the ground, compared with New York,
makes one readily believe that the importation of wines must be among
the most money-making of all kinds of business. Vinegar and water is
quite as good a drink as much of this wine, and a little sugar added
makes it better. Prince Metternich owns the famous Johannisberg
vineyard, a little farther on, of seventy acres, of which many and
fabulous tales are told of the small quantity and great prices of the
wine, of the celebrated men who have owned the vineyard, and how very
costly the wine becomes by age. But I will not weary you with them. The
river itself is identified with the history of Europe. Taking its rise
in the St. Gothard Pass in Switzerland, it receives tributaries all the
way down, yet it is a small and comparatively insignificant stream. But
kings have often fought for it, and it was the late French Emperor’s
highest ambition to water his horses in the Rhine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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