The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
Charlemagne was born in this place in the year 742. The cathedral is his
monument, and under the central dome is a slab in the floor with the
simple inscription, “Carolo Magno.” The cathedral was adorned with the
richest marbles the world could furnish, and the highest art of the age
was lavished in its structure and ornament. The windows reach from the
roof nearly to the ground, and with their rich decorations give a
peculiar beauty to the interior. The city has again and again been
ravaged by enemies; other buildings have been razed to their
foundations, but this has steadily stood in the midst of war and fires
and centuries of decay and change. Long has it been the shrine of Roman
worship, for Pope Leo consecrated it in 804; and thus, a thousand years
and more, it has been gathering treasures of wealth, of association, and
interest. It is now the most sacred shrine in the north, and, indeed, it
is not likely that any spot this side of Rome has half so much to excite
the veneration of the faithful.
Perhaps Rome herself has not more holy relics. This is a bold
supposition. But the list of sacred things here collected is so long and
so wonderful, and the estimate in which they are held is so high, that
the city fairly lays claims to the first rank among the favored.
Therefore pilgrimages are made to these shrines as to the Holy City
itself.
My pilgrimage hither was accidental, or, rather, providential. As I came
into it at the close of a summer’s day, the streets were thronged with
men and women, moving up and down, apparently without an object, swaying
like the waves of the sea, and I asked if this was the usual crowd on
the streets of an evening. It was at the height of the season for
visitors to its famous fountains of water; for long before it was a
shrine for pilgrims coming to pray, it was known for its mineral springs
and their remarkable healing virtues. What more could be desired than a
charm to cure diseases both of the bodies and the souls of strangers.
The old pagan Romans knew the efficacy of these waters; and through all
the centuries, since their rule, the city has been a fashionable
watering-place. It was once the seat of empire, and the palace of
Charlemagne, whose name invests it with more than romantic interest, has
now passed away. Yet the city is frequented annually by thousands from
distant parts, drawn here by the well-established reputation of the
springs. It was, therefore, natural for me to ask if these crowds were
the usual concourse of people on the streets of a summer evening.
The answer to my inquiry indicated as much surprise as the disciples
exhibited when they said, “Art thou only a stranger in Jerusalem, and
hast not known the things which are come to pass there in these days?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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