The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
At Bialystok, the next station, a lady left the cars and was met by a
young man, perhaps her son, in military dress; they kissed each other
four times, and he then kissed her hand, and the salutations were
completed. Many Jewish women were out to-day, which is one of their
feasts; the cross-roads were thronged with Jews, who seemed to be
gathering there to see the cars passing; they were not allowed on the
track or on the side of the railroad, but must keep themselves on the
wagon-roads, where they crossed the track. This town of Bialystok is
quite an important place of 16,000 people, on the borders of the old
kingdom, and in the cutting up of the country it has sometimes been
Prussia, sometimes Russia, and aforetime Poland. It is now Russia, of
course. We come on to Grodno, with its 20,000 inhabitants, which is a
large town in Russia proper, and we feel a pleasant relief in being
within the bounds of the empire itself, though even this was once in
Poland, and the residence of some of her kings. Here sat the diets, or
congress, of Poland, and even that most celebrated of all of them, the
diet of 1793, which gave its consent to the partition of Poland. Here,
too, the last king of Poland, Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski, laid down
his sceptre. We find the Jews, in great numbers, out on a holiday; the
grand-high-priest, with his gorgeous breastplate on, with long hair, as
if it had never been cut and he were a Nazarene from his birth. We are
now travelling in Lithuania, once a duchy, whose duke married the Queen
of Poland, by name Hedwiga, in 1386. This union made Poland powerful to
resist the Tartars and the Dukes of Moscow, and to maintain the
independence of the kingdom for a long series of years. The union of
Lithuania and Poland continued until the third partition in 1795. The
country appears poorer as we advance; the soil is less fertile; there is
more sandy and barren waste. Pines and firs and white birches are the
trees we see now; the houses of the peasants are low and poor; we have
long since ceased to see improvements about the railroad stations; we
are getting into regions of less civilization. As far as the eye reaches
away to the horizon, no hills are in sight. It was across these wide
plains that the great French captain led his hosts to invade Russia,
sixty years ago! We shall be frequently on the track of that army’s
awful march, and its disastrous retreat. We have come to Kowno, where
the rivers Vilia and Niemen meet. Here the French army crossed the
Niemen, June 23, 1812, on their way to Moscow, and a gentle rise of
ground, on the bank, is still called Napoleon’s Hill. It was a mighty
host when it was here in June. All the annals of war and of the world
furnish no parallel to the story of that campaign; it was an epitome of
Napoleon’s whole career. But it is rare that marble is so modest as the
monument which the Russians have set up at Kowno to commemorate the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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