The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
The Tartar hordes have in ages past been fond of making raids upon
Moscow, and leaving her palaces heaps of smoking ruins. In old times the
Russians built them of wood for the most part, though one of stone
erected in 1484 is still standing. Then the Czars removed the capital to
St. Petersburg, and for a long time the Kremlin was without a palace or
an emperor. The celebrated Empress Anne gave Moscow a palace, and her
presence now and then, and Catharine II. designed a royal residence so
vast and gorgeous as to rival the palaces of the world, but it was never
finished; its model is preserved as a curiosity in the treasury. What
she did build, the French wantonly burned when they were compelled to
desert the city which its own inhabitants had consigned to destruction.
This house, at the doors of which we have been standing while I have
given you these historical facts, is the work of the late Nicholas, and
is only about twenty years old. It has no likeness in the various orders
of architecture; there is no correspondence or harmony between the
within and without of it: yet the whole interior is a blaze of gold and
upholstery that leaves all rules of taste and art out of the question.
We pass through the Empress’s drawing-room, hung with white silk, her
cabinet in crimson, her dressing and bath rooms with malachite mantels
and priceless ornaments; the Emperor’s cabinet, with magnificent
paintings of the proud French coming into Moscow, and the poor French
skulking out,—grim satires these on the horrors and fortunes of war; the
state apartments, with huge crystal vases at the entrance; the Hall of
St. George, with the names of regiments and soldiers inscribed in gold
upon the walls, who have been decorated with this order for bravery on
the field; the Hall of St. Andrew, hung with blue silk, and inscribed
with the names of heroes; the Emperor’s throne, more ostentatious and
imposing than any other in Europe; the audience-chamber and
banqueting-room, on which is lavished the last resource of gilt and
paint to make a show,—and yet when we are ushered into the Gold Court,
all former magnificence is for the moment forgotten in the dazzling
splendor that fills the place, as if the walls were blazing with living
golden light. A flight of steps at one end of the room, called “the red
stair case,” is never trodden upon but when the Emperor, on the greatest
of all occasions, goes to the Cathedral of the Assumption. This is part
of the old palace begun by Catharine, and has a history running back to
the time when John the Terrible stood here and saw the comet that he
construed into an omen of his doom. And up this flight of stairs came
Napoleon, the greatest of actors, when he took possession of the palace
of the Kremlin. And when he went down these stairs he began that descent
which never stopped till he touched the bottom of his tomb.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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