The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
We are now going further north, by narrow passages among islands simply
masses of rocks, utterly barren, washed by the waves till they are
perfectly smooth; and not a tree, nor shrub, nor blade of grass is in
sight upon them. The channel is very tortuous, marked by poles, and
sometimes it is so near the rocks that we seem to be grazing their
precipitous sides. The weather is cool, clear, and delightful; though
midsummer, the overcoat or shawl is agreeable; and the exhilaration of
the day and the passage among the islands became general among the
passengers, who throng the hurricane-deck to enjoy the scenery. Some of
the islands that we pass in the course of the day have some available
land and a few inhabitants, whose chief pursuit is fishing. And these
scattered islands, and the adjoining shores on the mainland, furnish
sailors that enter the service of other countries, and are among the
most hardy, healthful, and valuable seamen to be found. The subjects of
the Russian government, either here or in any other part of the empire,
are not allowed to expatriate themselves at their own pleasure, as
thousands would gladly do, if they could make their way into some more
hospitable portion of the globe. But they can often find opportunities
to get on board merchant vessels as seamen, and they are not slow to
avail themselves of such opportunities. The soil does not give them
food. They have no market for the fish that the sea would furnish. They
are therefore very poor, and in bad seasons famine overtakes them. The
people that have money, the well-to-do people,—and there are many such
in Finland,—have plenty of dried salmon, and fresh too, beef and
potatoes, which, with bread and butter, make good enough living for
anybody; and to these staples they add some of the luxuries that money
will command anywhere. But the poor are very poor, and they constitute
the masses of the people,—the great multitude whose condition we go to
look into when we visit foreign lands.
Abo is pronounced Obo. It is the name of the northernmost town of any
note in Finland, and a famous old town it is. We were told that the
hotel is the farthest north of any hotel in the world. Away up above us
on the borders of the Gulf of Bothnia,—and Abo is at the dividing line
between the Baltic and Bothnia,—is Bjonneborg, and Christireestad, and
Wasa, and Uleaborg, and Tornea on the very head of the gulf, where there
is something in the way of a house of refreshment for travellers, I have
not a doubt. Perhaps this is the last that aspires to the distinction of
a hotel on the European plan, and we will enjoy the comfortable
satisfaction of thinking that, as we are going no farther north, there
is no place of rest and entertainment to receive us if we should.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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