The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
We went down the stone stairway, worn deeply by the tread of
generations, into the lower regions, where lie whole rows of dead kings
turned to dust, coffins tucked away on shelves and in niches, reminding
me of the Bible words: “All the kings of the nations, even all of them,
lie in glory, every one in his own house.” What’s the glory, though, of
such a resting-place, it is hard to say. Their dust is no better than
that of other men. Their names, even among kings, have ceased to be
distinguished from other names. No man could go among these walks of
tombs, these shelved kings, and pick out one or another, and say who is
who. And if he could, I do not see that it would be any particular
satisfaction to the quiet gentleman on the shelf. If the visitor should
say, “Is this the man that made the earth to tremble, that did shake
kingdoms?” no answer would come back from the tomb.
We did not set foot within the gates of his majesty, the King of Sweden,
and this neglect was much to the disgust of some of our Swedish friends,
who consider the royal residence a marvel of architectural grandeur and
beauty. We could not see it, even when they pointed to its magnificence
with the same exalted opinion of its splendor that possessed the Jews in
sight of their temple. The Lion’s Staircase, rising from the water’s
edge and leading to the main entrance, adorned with two bronze, and
therefore quiet, lions, presents a grand front to the palace, and within
the same interminable suites of apartments, and the same gaudy
furniture, and the same sort of pictures and statuary, with nothing that
has a title to any distinction above what is common in all palaces.
The picture-gallery has some five hundred paintings, some by Van Dyck,
Paul Veronese, Domenichino, and others equally well known to fame, and
the sculpture gallery boasts a sleeping Endymion, and a few other gems;
but we are out of the enchanted zone, and must not expect to be charmed
with the brush or the chisel in Sweden. We shall find Thorvaldsen when
we come to Denmark.
But the royal library has 75,000 volumes, and if it had the library that
Queen Christina sent to the Vatican at Rome, it would be still a greater
wonder, and then would be increased if the ancient collection made by
Charles X., and consumed by fire in 1697, had been preserved. The _Codex
Aureus_, a Latin manuscript of the gospels, dating in the sixth or
seventh century, “is written in Gothic characters of gold, on folio
leaves of vellum, alternately white and violet.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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