The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
The sexton sat at the door, with a big key in his hand, and opened the
door to let the people in, but locked it when prayer began, and kept it
locked till prayer was ended, and then admitted those who had gathered.
Earthen pitchers or jugs stood on stools near the door to receive the
offerings, and many cast in what they had. The floor was of stone, and
many were tombstones, the inscriptions worn by the footsteps of the
living, so that the names of the dead were illegible. Eight immense
whitewashed pillars supported Gothic arches on which the roof rested.
The pulpit was of wood, elaborately carved, with Scripture scenes and
figures. A sounding-board above it was ornamented with quaint devices,
and surmounted by a human figure, perhaps an image of the Saviour. On
the front the word JEHOVAH, in Hebrew letters, was inscribed. The pews
were very plain, unpainted slips, with doors locked until the owners
came, whose names were on slips of paper attached. On the sides of the
church, long rude seats were free. We occupied them. The congregation
was very slow in getting in. The same variety of dress that would mark
one of our rural churches was apparent. Rich and poor met together. Some
of the ladies were dressed elaborately with the flat French bonnet;
others in a costume of the country, a small black shawl or kerchief
thrown over the head and pinned under the chin. The men were all rustic
in garb and manner, accustomed to out-of-door hard work. All appeared
devotional, respectful; old and young, on coming in, bowed in silent
prayer; all stood in singing. The service was Lutheran, the established
religion. All had books of the service, which was read with a loud voice
and much intonation by the clerk. The preacher was a handsome young man,
with great energy of voice and no action. His text had the name Jesus
Christ in it, and the words were often repeated with tenderness and
earnestness. I could understand no other words, and could only hope that
as even those were sweet to my ears, the preacher was commending him to
the congregation as the chief among ten thousand, the one altogether
lovely.
Many of the men took snuff. The man on my right, two on my left, two in
front of me, held the box under their noses to catch what fell back in
the operation. They also offered the same boxes to me. One of the men
sneezed immoderately four or five times. The sexton going up the aisle,
and standing on the tombstone of some old saint, blew his (the sextons,
not the saint’s) nose with his fingers, wiped it with a blue cotton
handkerchief, polished it off with the back of his hand, and then walked
up to the pulpit to do his errand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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