The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
After crossing the plains of La Mancha we reach the Sierra Morena range
of mountains, and are to work our way through and over them. The daring
of the engineers who would push a road into such recesses is prodigious.
The precipices are frightful. Peaks of mountains start up suddenly, and
seem to pierce the clouds. Rocks of gigantic grandeur rise abruptly, and
sometimes stand apart in solitary dignity. Deep gorges are to be spanned
by the iron road. Long and frequent galleries lead, in gloomy state,
through the bowels of the mountains. The road is sublime, if safe, and
it appears to be well made. We come to a bridge under repairs. All the
passengers are requested to walk. In single file we march over the
bridge, and then await the train. It comes across, lightened of its
load, slowly and safely. It is quite likely that in America the engineer
would have put on all steam, and dashed across in a second, or, if not,
he would have gone down a hundred feet, into a frightful chasm, and the
verdict, if any were sought, would have been, “nobody to blame.” Fret as
we do about the railroad management in Europe, it is safer and surer
than ours. They err generally on the safe side, provoking us by their
delays, but very rarely breaking our necks. And, on the whole, their way
of doing things is the best.
At Manjibar we stopped for lunch, or breakfast, or dinner, whichsoever
any one might call it. It was hard to say where or when our last meal
was, and what was the name of this. Still more difficult was it to
ascertain the names of the dishes set before us. One dish _had been_
chicken, but in some advanced stage of its post-mortem existence it had
been consigned to a bath of pickle, and was now offered for our
consumption. A single taste sufficed. It probably returned to its brine,
to wait a bolder customer, with a better appetite. Then they gave us a
stew. I suggested that it was hare. My companion thought it a cat. I
gave it the benefit of the doubt, and turned away. The price of this
meal that we tried in vain to eat, was the same as the table-d’hôte
dinner at many hotels in Paris,—four francs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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