The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
Within the temple there is at first a sense of gloom, almost of
oppression, arising from the vastness of the area and the want of
height. The roof cannot be more than 40 or 50 feet high, while the floor
stretches away 640 feet in length and 460 feet in breadth. A thousand
columns in long lines, like trees planted in the garden of the Lord, are
each of one single stone,—the spoils of temples in the East and the
West, and some of them imperial gifts, and hence a variety of colors and
size, showing all sorts of marbles, the green and red jasper, black,
white and rose, emerald and porphyry. Crossing each other, at right
angles, these rows of pillars form nineteen naves one way and
twenty-nine the other; long-drawn aisles, over which the
horse-shoe-shaped arches, standing one upon the other and supporting the
roof, produce a marvellous effect.
[Illustration: THE GREAT MOSQUE, CORDOVA.]
The Holy of Holies in the mosque was the Mihrab, and it has been
preserved in the converted temple, with religious care, as at once a
curiosity and a memorial that the Mahometan has ceased to defile these
courts. It is a recess in the wall of the temple, in which the Koran was
kept, and where the Kalif came to say his prayers, looking out of a
little window toward Mecca. It is a small six-sided room, about twelve
feet across, the floor one piece of marble, and the roof, in the shape
of a shell, is also, we were assured, of a single block, and up the six
sides rise marble pilasters, the whole adorned with strange Arabic art
and mysterious inscriptions. When Hakem was Caliph of Cordova, he sent
messengers into the East to ask for skilful artificers in painting glass
and giving this strange effect to tracery in metals and stone; for there
is in mosaic work, when well done, something superior to the softest
painting, and quite incomprehensible. The workers in mosaic came, and
their skill now shines in this miracle of Oriental art, which has been
here since 965, and is as fresh and beautiful as when it shone at the
feast of the Rhamadhan, in the light of a thousand lamps. In the marble
floor is worn a deep groove, by the knees of devout Mussulmans, who have
thus gone around it while at their devotions.
On the sides of the cathedral are many chapels, each with its altar, its
pictures, its relics, and its history. By one of them, once a Moorish
sanctuary paved with silver, is a rude painting of a crucifixion, and an
inscription in Spanish which tells us that that—
“While the Mahometans celebrated their orgies in this temple, a
Christian captive uttered the name of Christ, whom he held in his heart,
and he engraved this image with his nails on the hard stone of this
pillar, for which his death has purchased this aureole.”
On the stone column is etched a crucifixion which tradition says the
prisoner scratched in with his finger nails. The stone is very hard, and
the story harder.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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