The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
It was a dreadful day for Seville, and indeed for Spain, when the Moors
were driven out of the country; they had conquered it, and ruled eight
hundred years. Four hundred thousand Moors, Jews and Arabs, left this
city of Seville in a few days after it was surrendered to St. Ferdinand.
Wealth, learning, taste, art, and the charm of Eastern life went out
with them, and Spain has been lower in the scale of morals and manners
ever since. This is no compliment to Mahometanism. To compare the
present condition of Spain with any thing that has gone before it, and
say that the former days were better than these, is saying very little
for the better times. In this old city of Seville we found the Alcazar
or palace, being the first specimen of Moorish magnificence we had seen.
It consists of a group of palaces, on the banks of the Guadalquiver, and
exhibits the same style of architecture and mural decorations that are
so much admired and celebrated in the Alhambra. Indeed, the pavements
and columns and arches and apartments have been preserved or restored
with so much greater care than the Alhambra itself, that the latter
appears to be a feeble example of Moorish taste and skill, compared with
these glorious rooms in Seville. Fancy must people these chambers with
men and women, of flesh and blood; clothe them in Oriental and gorgeous
raiment, surround them with every luxury that gold and labor and power
can give; hang these passages with curtains whose richness has not been
excelled by any thing that modern art has produced. When the sleepy
janitor opens the outer gate and leads you through these deserted and
empty halls, in which your footfalls make the only sound, into
apartments that for centuries have been silent as the grave, yet on
every hand is beauty of coloring and carving and curiously wrought
adorning that you must pause to admire; even in the midst of admiration
one cannot but mourn that the barbaric splendor of Moorish glory has
departed, and the degenerate race of effete Spanish civilization has
taken its place. A thousand wives of a proud Moor once made these walls
jocund with their mirth, and the adjoining gardens and the beautiful
Guadalquiver were gay with their revels and song, and the moral tone of
the palace was as high, and the happiness of the people just as great as
when a dissolute queen and a profligate court, and an ignorant,
depraved, and impoverished people, constituted the government and
inhabitants of a nominally Christian kingdom.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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