But the event which above all others attracted the attention of
Englishmen to the Alps was Albert Smith’s ascent of Mont Blanc. Albert
Smith is the most picturesque of the British mountaineers. He was
something of a _blagueur_, but behind all his vulgarity lay a very deep
feeling for the Alps. His little book on Mont Blanc makes good reading.
The pictures are delightfully inaccurate in their presentation of the
terrors of Alpine climbing; and the thoroughly sincere fashion in which
the whole business of climbing is written up proves that the great
white mountain had not yet lost its prestige. But we can forgive Albert
Smith a great deal, for he felt the glamour of the Alps long before
he had seen a hill higher than St. Anne’s, near Chertsey. As a child,
he had been given _The Peasants of Chamouni_, a book which rivalled
_Pilgrim’s Progress_ in his affections. This mountain book fired him
to anticipate his subsequent success as a showman. “Finally, I got up
a small moving panorama of the horrors pertaining to Mont Blanc ...
and this I so painted up and exaggerated in my enthusiasm, that my
little sister--who was my only audience, but an admirable one, for she
cared not how often I exhibited--would become quite pale with fright.”
Time passed, and Albert Smith became a student in Paris. He discovered
that his enthusiasm for Mont Blanc was shared by a medical student;
and together they determined to visit the Mecca of their dreams. They
collected twelve pounds apiece, and vowed that it should last them for
five weeks. They carried it about with them entirely in five-franc
pieces, chiefly stuffed into a leathern belt round their waists. Buying
“two old soldiers’ knapsacks at three francs each, and two pairs of
hobnailed shoes at five francs and a half,” they started off on their
great adventure. Smith wisely adds that, “if there is anything more
delightful than travelling with plenty of money, it is certainly making
a journey of pleasure with very little.”
They made the journey to Geneva in seventy-eight hours by _diligence_.
At Melun they bought a brick of bread more than two feet long. “The
passengers paid three francs each for their _déjeuner_, ours did not
cost ten sous.” At night, they slept in the empty _diligence_. They
meant to make that twelve pounds apiece carry them some distance. From
Geneva they walked to Chamounix, helped by an occasional friendly lift.
Smith was delighted with the realisation of childish dreams. “Every
step was like a journey in fairyland.” In fact, the only disillusion
was the contrast between the Swiss peasant of romance and the reality.
“The Alpine maidens we encountered put us more in mind of poor law
unions than ballads; indeed, the Swiss villagers may be classed with
troubadours, minstrel pages, shepherdesses, and other fabulous pets of
small poets and vocalists.” After leaving Chamounix, Smith crossed the
St. Bernard, visited Milan, and returned with a small margin still left
out of the magic twelve pounds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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