Albert Smith returned to London, took up practice as a surgeon, wrote
for _Punch_, and acquired a big reputation as an entertainer in _The
Overland Mail_, written by himself and founded on a journey to Egypt
and Constantinople. The songs and sketches made the piece popular, and
insured a long run. At the close of the season he went to Chamounix
again, fully determined to climb Mont Blanc. He was accompanied by
William Beverley, the artist, and was lucky to fall in with some
Oxford undergraduates with the same ambition as himself. They joined
forces, and a party of twenty, including guides, prepared for the
great expedition. Amongst other provisions, they took ninety-four
bottles of wine, four legs of mutton, four shoulders of mutton, and
forty-six fowls. Smith was out of training, and suffered terribly from
mountain sickness. He was horrified by the Mur de la Côte, which he
describes as “an all but perpendicular iceberg,” and adds that “every
step was gained from the chance of a horrible death.” As a matter of
fact, the Mur de la Côte is a very simple, if steep, snow slope. A
good ski-runner could, under normal conditions, descend it on ski. If
Smith had fallen, he would have rolled comfortably to the bottom, and
stopped in soft snow. “Should the foot or the baton slip,” he assures
us, “there is no chance for life. You would glide like lightning from
one frozen crag to another, and finally be dashed to pieces hundreds of
feet below.” It is pleasant to record that Smith reached the summit,
though not without considerable difficulty, and that his party drank
all the wine and devoured the forty-six fowls, etc., before their
successful return to Chamounix.
Smith wrote an account of the ascent which provoked a bitter attack in
_The Daily News_. Albert Smith was contrasted with De Saussure, greatly
to Smith’s disadvantage. The sober, practical Englishman of the period
could only forgive a mountain ascent if the climber brought back
with him from the heights, something more substantial than a vision
of remembered beauty. A few inaccurate readings of an untrustworthy
barometer could, perhaps, excuse a pointless exploit. “Saussure’s
observations,” said a writer in _The Daily News_, “live in his poetical
philosophy, those of Mr. Albert Smith will be most appropriately
recorded in a tissue of indifferent puns, and stale, fast witticisms
with an incessant straining after smartness. The aimless scramble of
the four pedestrians to the top of Mont Blanc will not go far to redeem
the somewhat equivocal reputation of the herd of English to risks in
Switzerland for a mindless, and rather vulgar, redundance of animal
spirits.” Albert Smith did not allow the subject to drop. He turned
Mont Blanc into an entertainment at the Egyptian Hall, an entertainment
which became very popular, and was patronised by the Queen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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