Forbes carried through a number of fine expeditions. He climbed the
Jungfrau with Agassiz and Desor--before the little trouble referred to
above. He made the first passage by an amateur of the Col d’Hérens,
and the first ascents of the Stockhorn (11,796 feet) and the Wasenhorn
(10,661 feet). Besides his Alpine wanderings, he explored some of the
glaciers of Savoy. His most famous book, _The Tour of Mont Blanc_, is
well worth reading, and contains one fine passage, a simile between the
motion of a glacier and the life of man.
Forbes was the first British mountaineer; but John Ball played an even
more important part in directing the activity of the English climbers.
He was a Colonial Under-Secretary in Lord Palmerston’s administration;
but he gave up politics for the more exciting field of Alpine
adventure. His main interest in the Alps was, perhaps, botanical;
and his list of first ascents is not very striking, considering the
host of virgin peaks that awaited an enterprising pioneer. His great
achievement was the conquest of the first great dolomite peak that
yielded its secrets to man, the Pelmo. He also climbed the virgin
Cima Tosa in the Brenta dolomites, and made the first traverse of
the Schwartztor. He was the first to edit guidebooks for the use of
mountaineers, and his knowledge of the Alps was surprisingly thorough.
He played a great part in the formation of the Alpine Club, and in the
direction of their literary activity. He edited the classical series of
_Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers_, and a series of excellent Alpine guides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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