saw the two strangers on the snow slopes ahead, making all haste to be
the first on the summit. This provoked great wrath on the part of Mr.
Wills’s guides, who believed that the Wetterhorn was a virgin peak, a
view also shared by the two usurpers, who had heard of the intended
ascent and resolved to plant their fir-tree side by side with the iron
“flagge.” They had started very early that same morning, and hunted
their quarry down. A vigorous exchange of shouts and threats resulted
in a compromise. “Balmat’s anger was soon appeased when he found they
owned the reasonableness of his desire that they should not steal
from us the distinction of being the first to scale that awful peak;
and, instead of administering the fisticuffs he had talked about, he
declared they were _bons enfants_ after all, and presented them with a
cake of chocolate. Thus the pipe of peace was smoked, and tranquillity
reigned between the rival forces.”
From their resting-place they could see the final summit. From this
point a steep snow slope, about three to four hundred feet in height,
rises to the final crest, which is usually crowned by a cornice. The
little party made their way up the steep slope, till Lauener reached
the final cornice. It should, perhaps, be explained, that a cornice is
a projecting cave of wind-blown snow which is usually transformed by
sun and frost into ice. Lauener “stood close, not facing the parapet,
but turned half round, and struck out as far away from himself as
he could.... Suddenly, a startling cry of surprise and triumph rang
through the air. A great block of ice bounded from the top of the
parapet, and before it had well lighted on the glacier, Lauener
exclaimed ‘Ich schaue den Blauen Himmel’ (‘I see blue sky’). A thrill
of astonishment and delight ran through our frames. Our enterprise had
succeeded. We were almost upon the actual summit. That wave above us,
frozen, as it seemed, in the act of falling over, into a strange and
motionless magnificence, was the very peak itself. Lauener’s blows
flew with redoubled energy. In a few minutes a practicable breach was
made, through which he disappeared; and in a moment more the sound of
his axe was heard behind the battlement under whose cover we stood.
In his excitement he had forgotten us, and very soon the whole mass
would have come crashing down upon our heads. A loud shout of warning
from Sampson, who now occupied the gap, was echoed by five other
eager voices, and he turned his energies in a safer direction. It was
not long before Lauener and Sampson together had widened the opening;
and then at length we crept slowly on. As I took the last step Balmat
disappeared from my sight; my left shoulder grazed against the angle of
the icy embrasure, while on the right the glacier fell abruptly away
beneath me towards an unknown and awful abyss; a hand from an invisible
person grasped mine; I stepped across, and had passed the ridge of the
Wetterhorn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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