“The instant before I had been face to face with a blank wall of ice.
One step, and the eye took in a boundless expanse of crag and glacier,
peak and precipice, mountain and valley, lake and plain. The whole
world seemed to lie at my feet. The next moment, I was almost appalled
by the awfulness of our position. The side we had come up was steep;
but it was a gentle slope compared with that which now fell away from
where I stood. A few yards of glittering ice at our feet, and then
nothing between us and the green slopes of Grindelwald nine thousand
feet beneath.”
The “iron flagge” and fir-tree were planted side by side, and attracted
great attention in Grindelwald. The “flagge” they could understand,
but the fir-tree greatly puzzled them.
Christian Almer, the hero of the fir-tree, was destined to be one of
the great Alpine guides. His first ascents form a formidable list, and
include the Eiger, Mönch, Fiescherhorn in the Oberland (besides the
first ascent of the Jungfrau direct from the Wengern Alp), the Ecrins,
monarch of the Dauphiny, the Grand Jorasses, Col Dolent, Aiguille
Verte in the Mont Blanc range, the Ruinette, and Morning Pass in the
Pennines. But Almer’s most affectionate recollections always centred
round the Wetterhorn. The present writer remembers meeting him on
his way to celebrate his golden wedding, on the summit of his first
love. Almer also deserves to be remembered as a pioneer of winter
mountaineering. He made with Mr. Coolidge the first winter ascents of
the Jungfrau and Wetterhorn. It was on a winter ascent of the former
peak that he incurred frostbite, that resulted in the amputation of his
toes, and the sudden termination of his active career. Some years later
he died peaceably in his bed.
A year after Mr. Wills’s famous climb, a party of Englishmen, headed
by the brothers Smyth, conquered the highest point of Monte Rosa. The
Alpine campaign was fairly opened. Hudson made a new route up Mont
Blanc without guides, the first great guideless climb by Englishmen.
Hinchcliffe, the Mathews, E. S. Kennedy, and others, had already done
valuable work.
The Alpine Club was the natural result of the desire on the part of
these climbers to meet together in London and compare notes. The idea
was first mooted in a letter from Mr. William Mathews to the Rev. J. A.
Hort.[3] The first meeting was held on December 22, 1857. The office
of President was left open till it was deservedly filled by John Ball;
E. S. Kennedy became Vice-President, and Mr. Hinchcliffe, Honorary
Secretary. It is pleasant to record that Albert Smith, the showman, was
an original member. The English pioneers prided themselves, not without
some show of justification, on the fact that their sport attracted men
of great intellectual powers. Forbes, Tyndall, and Leslie Stephen, are
great names in the record of Science and Literature. The present Master
of Trinity was one of the early members, his qualification being an
ascent of Monte Rosa, Sinai, and Parnassus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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