Whymper’s story is told with simplicity and restraint. He was too good
a craftsman to spoil a great subject by unnecessary strokes. They
started next day before dawn. They had left Zermat on the 13th, and
they left their camp on a Friday (the superstitious noted these facts
when the whole disastrous story was known). The whole of the great
eastern slope “was now revealed, rising for 3000 feet like a huge
natural staircase. Some parts were more and others were less easy;
but we were not once brought to a halt by any serious impediment....
For the greater part of the way there was no need for the rope, and
sometimes Hudson led, and sometimes myself.” When they arrived at the
snow ridge now known as “The Shoulder,” which is some 500 feet below
the summit, they turned over on to the northern face. This proved
more difficult; but the general angle of the slope was nowhere more
than forty degrees. Hadow’s want of experience began to tell, and
he required a certain amount of assistance. “The solitary difficult
part was of no great extent.... A long stride round a rather awkward
corner brought us to snow once more. The last doubt had vanished. The
Matterhorn was ours. Nothing but 200 feet of easy snow remained to be
surmounted.”
But they were not yet certain that they had not been beaten. The
Italians had left Breuil four days before. All through the climb,
false alarms had been raised of men on the top. The excitement became
intense. “The slope eased off; at length we could be detached; and Croz
and I, dashing away, ran a neck-and-neck race which ended in a dead
heat. At 1.40 p.m. the world was at our feet, and the Matterhorn was
conquered.”
No footsteps could be seen; but the summit of the Matterhorn consists
of a rudely level ridge about 350 feet in length, and the Italians
might have been at the further end. Whymper hastened to the Italian
summit, and again found the snow untrodden. They peered over the ridge,
and far below on the right caught sight of the Italian party. “Up went
my arms and hat. ‘Croz, Croz, come here!’ ‘Where are they, monsieur?’
‘There, don’t you see them, down there.’ ‘Ah, the coquins, they are low
down.’ ‘Croz, we must make those fellows hear us.’ They yelled until
they were hoarse. ‘Croz, we must make them hear us, they shall hear
us.’” Whymper seized a block of rock and hurled it down, and called on
his companion to do the same. They drove their sticks in, and soon a
whole torrent was pouring down. “There was no mistake about it this
time. The Italians turned and fled.”
[Illustration: III.--THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-WEST.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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