After an hour on the summit, they prepared to descend. The order of
descent was curious. Croz, as the best man in the party, should have
been placed last. As a matter of history, he led, followed, in this
order, by Hadow, Hudson, Douglas, and Peter Taugwalder. Whymper was
sketching while the party was being arranged. They were waiting for him
to tie on when somebody suggested that the names had not been left in a
bottle. While Whymper put this right, the rest of the party moved on. A
few minutes later Whymper tied on to young Peter, and followed detached
from the others. Later, Douglas asked Whymper to attach himself to old
Taugwalder, as he feared that Taugwalder would not be able to hold his
ground in the event of a slip. About three o’clock in the afternoon,
Michel Croz, who had laid aside his axe, faced the rock, and, in order
to give Hadow greater security, was putting his feet one by one into
their proper position. Croz then turned round to advance another step
when Hadow slipped, fell against Croz, and knocked him over. “I heard
one startled exclamation from Croz, and then saw him and Mr. Hadow
flying downwards; in another moment Hudson was dragged from his steps,
and Lord Francis Douglas immediately after him. All this was the work
of a moment. Immediately we heard Croz’s exclamation, old Peter and
I planted ourselves as firmly as the rocks would permit: the rope
was taut between us, and the jerk came on us both as on one man. We
held: but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder and Lord Francis
Douglas. For a few seconds, we saw our unfortunate companions sliding
downwards on their backs, and spreading out their hands endeavouring
to save themselves. They passed from our sight uninjured, disappeared
one by one, and then fell from precipice to precipice on to the
Matterhorngletscher below, a distance of nearly 4000 feet in height.
From the moment the rope broke, it was impossible to help them.”
For half-an-hour, Whymper and the two Taugwalders remained on the spot
without moving. The two guides cried like children. Whymper was fixed
between the older and younger Taugwalder, and must have heartily
regretted that he left young Peter the responsibility of last man down,
for the young man was paralysed with terror, and refused to move. At
last, he descended, and they stood together. Whymper asked immediately
for the end of the rope that had given way, and noticed with horror
that it was the weakest of the three ropes. It had never been intended
to use it save as a reserve in case much rope had to be left behind to
attach to the rocks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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