This accident sent a thrill of horror through the civilised world.
The old file of _The Times_, which is well worth consulting, bears
tribute to the profound sensation which the news of this great tragedy
aroused. Idle rumours of every kind were afloat--with these we shall
deal later. For more than five weeks, not a day passed without some
letter or comment in the columns of the leading English paper. These
letters, for the most part, embodied the profound distrust with which
the new sport was regarded by the bulk of Englishmen. If Lord Francis
Douglas had been killed while galloping after a fox, he would have
been considered to have fallen in action. That he should have fallen
on the day that the Matterhorn fell, that he should have paid the
supreme forfeit for a triumphant hour in Alpine history--such a death
was obviously wholly without its redeeming features. “It was the
blue ribbon of the Alps,” wrote _The Times_, “that poor Lord Francis
Douglas was trying for the other day. If it must be so, at all events
the Alpine Club that has proclaimed this crusade must manage the thing
rather better, or it will soon be voted a nuisance. If the work is to
be done, it must be done well. They must advise youngsters to practise,
and make sure of their strength and endurance.”
For three weeks, Whymper gave no sign. At last, in response to a
dignified appeal from Mr. Justice Wills, then President of the Alpine
Club, he broke silence, and gave to the public a restrained account of
the tragedy. As we have said, malicious rumour had been busy, and in
ignorant quarters there had been rumours of foul play. The Matterhorn
accident first popularised the theory that Alpine ropes existed to
be cut. Till then, the public had supposed that the rope was used
to prevent cowardly climbers deserting their party in an emergency.
But from 1865 onwards, popular authors discovered a new use for the
rope. They divided all Alpine travellers into two classes, those who
cut the rope from below (“Greater love hath no man--a romance of the
mountains”) and those who cut the rope from above (“The Coward--a tale
of the snows”). A casual reader might be pardoned for supposing that
the Swiss did a brisk business in sheath knives. We should be the last
to discourage this enterprising school--their works have afforded much
joy to the climbing fraternity; but we offer them in all humility a few
remarks on the art of rope-cutting by a member of Class II (those who
cut the rope from above).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account