But guideless climbing had come to stay. A year after this memorable
meeting of the Alpine Club, two of its members carried out without
guides some expeditions more severe than anything Girdlestone had
attempted. In 1871 Mr. John Stogdon, a well-known Harrow master, and
the Rev. Arthur Fairbanks ascended the Nesthorn and Aletschhorn, and in
the following year climbed the Jungfrau and Aletschhorn unguided. No
record of these expeditions found its way into print. In 1876, a party
of amateurs, Messrs. Cust, Cawood, and Colgrove climbed the Matterhorn
without guides. This expedition attracted great attention, and was
severely commented on in the columns of the _Press_. Mr. Cust, in an
eloquent paper read before the Alpine Club, went to the root of the
whole matter when he remarked: “Cricket is a sport which is admitted by
all to need acquired skill. A man can buy his mountaineering as he can
buy his yachting. None the less, there are yachtsmen and yachtsmen.”
Systematic climbing on a modern scale without guides was perhaps first
practised by Purtscheller and Zsigmondys in 1880. Among our own people,
it found brilliant exponents in Morse, Mummery, Wicks, and Wilson some
twenty years ago; and it has since been adopted by many of our own
leading mountaineers. Abroad, guideless climbing finds more adherents
than with us. Naturally enough, the man who lives near the mountains
will find it easier to make up a guideless party among his friends;
and, if he is in the habit of spending all his holidays and most of his
week-ends among the mountains that can be reached in a few hours from
his home, he will soon acquire the necessary skill to dispense with
guides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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