Earlier in this paper, I observed that Royal visits to Paris never
“vary,” but in one respect this statement requires correction. The most
delicate, the most anxious duty of the French Government is to watch
over the safety of her illustrious guests. Paris, rightly or wrongly,
is alleged to abound with anarchists, fanatics and lunatics. Ask M.
Guichard, one of the chiefs of the Criminal Investigation Department:
and he will tell you that a Royal visit, if a delight to the public, is
a misery and a nightmare to the detective police. The extent, the depth
of the misery depends upon the nationality of the monarch. Of course, no
fears as to old Sisowath’s safety; and peril for Mulai Hafid, who was
nearly always in bed, caused even slighter apprehensions. The kings of
Belgium, Sweden and Norway—well, the detective police, although watchful,
“breathed” freely and slept of nights when their Majesties came to
Paris. But the King of Italy, a hundred thousand precautions; the King
of Spain—extraordinary vigilance: and even then a bomb fell within a few
yards of the Royal carriage; the Tsar—a state of panic and siege that
still haunts me after the interval of eighteen long years. Weeks before
his Imperial Majesty’s arrival, Russian detectives descended upon Paris.
Together with their French colleagues they searched for conspirators and
bombs—even forcing their way into the rooms of the poor Russian girl
students of the Latin Quarter, seizing their correspondence, subjecting
them to offensive cross-examinations. Still rougher methods with the male
students: with Russian plumbers, clerks and mechanics; many were arrested
on no evidence as “revolutionaries” and imprisoned (without being allowed
to communicate with their friends) until after the Imperial Visitor’s
departure. Often, as a result of the raids of the detective police,
the poorer Russian residents in Paris were given _congé_ by terrified
concierges, and had to take refuge in stifling, common lodging-houses, or
seek for shelter on the outskirts of Paris. Meanwhile, Paris was decking
herself out with flowers and flags, rehearsing coloured electrical
“effects,” setting the supports for the panoramic fireworks, buying
up the photographs of the Tsar of All the Russias. But it was a pale,
uneasy, harassed-looking Emperor that drove through the splendidly
decorated thoroughfares; it was a beautiful, but a sad-faced, Consort who
accompanied him; it was cheers all the way; but it was also a detective
in plain clothes at one’s elbow, more detectives in corners and doorways,
still more detectives on roofs and—I dare say—up chimneys; it was
festoons and illuminations and fireworks: but it was also bayonets and
sabres; it was the democratic _Marseillaise_ of France _and_ the National
Anthem of despotic Russia; it was “Long live the Emperor”; and “Long live
the Republic”—but it was an ironical, a pitiable spectacle: this Imperial
guest, come on a visit to a friendly country, protected and surrounded by
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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