Not that Rome was as objectionable as Athens. There, we are told that
both men and women painted their faces with white lead, their eyelids
with kohl, and their nails with henna; and in order to draw attention
to the depravity, they perfumed their hair with marjoram, rubbed their
arms with mint, their legs with ivy, and the soles of their feet with
baccaris. In Greece this idea of attention to personal beauty was a
perfect cult—the latest recipes for artificial adornments were engraved
on tablets and exhibited in the temples of Aesculapius, and, this done,
the state imposed a fine for a slatternly appearance; but for all that
it was decadent and nasty. People, of course, still spend money on their
personal appearance, but patchouli, thank heaven! has gone, even from
Piccadilly.
The Emperor’s fondness for fish was tempered by its rarity. He would
never eat of its living things whilst he sojourned near the sea; he would
have them transported to the immense salt-water tanks he had constructed
amongst the mountains and in the interior of the country, both for their
preservation and his own amusement. We are told that he invented a method
of fishing in which oxen figured, a conceit which later years has not
revived.
First in history he conceived of sausages made from lampreys’ roes,
soft-shelled oysters, lobsters, and crayfish, and fed the country
peasants on the same. Indeed, his generosity here, as in Rome, was
unbounded, the chroniclers relating how he would throw from the windows
as many dishes as he offered to his own guests then at table. There was
nothing of our niggardly idea of charity here, no notion that any crusts
were good enough for the hungry. His dogs were fed on foie-gras, his
horses on grapes, his lions on pheasants and parroquets—an unnecessary
and unpleasant waste when one knows how much these beasts would have
preferred a more ordinary fare.
His fish sauce was a triumph of the culinary art, which is utterly lost.
It was a transparent bluish-green, the counterpart of sea water, in which
the fish looked alive and natural, utterly unlike the ragged ugliness
which is now presented for our consumption. So famous were his dishes
that the pastrycooks and dairymen of the day were wont to reproduce them
in their own particular wares, selling the same as imperial affectations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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