As we came down the steps we disturbed a huge iguana, which darted up
the face of the ruin and ran along its edge, stopping motionless at the
corner to peer over at us, its grey dewlapped head and hideous blinking
eyes making it look like some animated gargoyle. Once more on the
ground, we turned towards the eastern annexe of the nunnery, containing
five open and two closed rooms. Its façade has scarcely a parallel in
Central America. The twining-serpent frieze, the "elephant trunk," the
diamond pattern, and other designs common in Mayan ornamentation are
lavishly used, as can be seen from the illustration, while in a central
arched niche is a bust with a headdress of feathers. Over the door are
twenty curious cartouches, five in a row, and over these are six
ornaments like capital T's stuck into the building by their stems. As we
approach, two or three asses, startled from their grazing at the
doorways, clatter off into the stony woodland. Lizard and wild ass!
Could better illustration than these desolate, gaping palace chambers be
found for Omar Khayyam's lines:
"They say the Lion and the Lizard keep
The Courts where Jamshyd gloried and drank deep;
And Bahram--that great hunter--the wild ass
Stamps o'er his head, but cannot break his sleep"?
We sat awhile amid the fallen blocks of masonry in what must have been
the nunnery courtyard, watching the swallows as they flew in and out of
those timeworn doorways. Here and there amid the stunted wiry grass rose
clumps of cactus and coarse thistle-like plants, while over all climbed
a large blue convolvulus, its centre striped purple-red, making Nature's
perfect harmony of colouring with a dainty butter-yellow foxglove-shaped
flower which filled the air with a subtle musky perfume. Huge
butterflies of orange and sulphur, of striped black and scarlet, of
black and white, flitted among the blooms; while over us blazed the sun
in a sea of blue, the rich blue of the eternal Carib summer.
A few yards south-eastward of us stood Akad-zib, "House of the
Mysterious Writing," eighteen-roomed and unique as being the only
building in Chichen not on a mound. Its façade--a contrast to the
palace--is severely plain, but the building has importance. In the room
looking south, over the dark lintel of a doorway leading to an inner
chamber, are two rows of hieroglyphics,--the best preserved in
Chichen,--while on the ceiling of this doorway, carved in relief and
seated in front of what appears to be a basin of incense, is a figure in
full-feathered dress, a right angle of glyphs running round to its left.
Southward beyond the Akad-zib we could just see that greener patch of
woodland which marks where lies the huge cenote whence the Itzas drew
their water supply. Approached by a winding path which runs to the
water's level, the broken sides of the chasm admit the sunlight, and the
blueness of the water and the golden green of the palm-leaves make a
true tropic picture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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