On the coast from El Cuyo to Cape Catoche and round as far east as
Contoy Island are mounds, sometimes many miles apart, averaging about 50
or 60 feet in height. We examined some of these. They are obviously
artificial, quite roughly built of earth and unhewn stones, and, there
can be little doubt, were erected during the later years of the
fifteenth and the early years of the sixteenth centuries as "look-outs"
to warn the tribes of the interior of the approach of the Spaniards.
Around them are no traces of buildings. From them smoke-signals by day
and fire by night doubtless served as a perfect means of collecting the
tribes at any threatened point.
From El Cuyo, recrossing the salt lakes which for twenty-four miles
fringe the swampy forest coast lands at this part, we took a directly
east course for sixty miles. Profitless as this part of our tour proved
archæologically, it was geographically of interest. We have been enabled
to prepare a map of this north-eastern corner of Yucatan, which attains
an accuracy no map heretofore published has attained. This district is a
dead level of primeval forest, untrodden, unknown, stretching for forty
miles inland and fringed by swamps which are anything from five to ten
miles wide. Here and there we discovered traces of Indian towns, in no
case suggesting much size, the settlements of those sub-tribes which
ranged this woodland and probably looked Chichen-wards for their supreme
chief. This belt of forest land forms the gigantic concession of a
Yucatecan trading concern, "La Compañía Agricola," founded in 1902; but
a really infinitesimal part comparatively has been brought by them under
cultivation, working with imported labour, chiefly from Cuba and Mexico.
From the officials--all Cubans--we received the most perfect courtesy
and the most generous assistance in forwarding our progress along the
coast, and we shall directly describe a pleasant stay we made on their
chief sugar plantation.
The days in the forest were monotonous enough. We followed a mule-track
used by the woodcutters. Mile after mile the scenery was the same. There
is nothing majestic in the Yucatecan forests. You see no giant trees, no
mighty fathers of the woodland towering up. The highest is the sapota,
from which the gummy sap _chicle_--basis of all American
chewing-gums--is obtained. The characteristic of the forest is its
deadly stillness. Thanks to the riverless nature of Yucatan there is
little animal life. The swamps afford a haunt for the black duck, for
wild geese, spoonbills, ibis and flamingo; and now and again you hear
the hoarse cry of a parakeet, or a wild pig bustles through the
undergrowth. But practically the forest is dead, flowerless, dark;
matted, tangled underfoot, matted, tangled overhead; the long snake-like
lianas hanging like fairy ropes from the highest, or weaving a network,
like the web of some monster spider, between the shorter, trees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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