We had some reason to think on the morrow of poor piggy "butchered to
make an archæologists' holiday," for we were destined to a fiasco as
complete, to a disappointment as bitter, as any in our tour, and there
were many. While it was still dark, the finest mules in the corral were
saddled and brought round. Mexican cowboys, in all the glory of leather
jerkins, hung wicker baskets, bursting full of cold meat and fruits, of
flasks of cognac and flagons of red wine, over their saddlebows. The
administrator's zeal had not evaporated with the night, and he appeared,
booted and spurred, to preside over the coffee which was served to us
just as the light was beginning to do successful battle with the
slate-grey of the before-dawn sky. It was a most imposing cavalcade
which started off a little later. All the shanties emptied their human
contents among the rubbish on the clearing to give us a fitting
send-off. First, in true military fashion, there were the Mexican
guides, as scouts, on foot and mounted. Next came the administrator,
commanding-in-chief, then came the archæological heroes of the occasion
(not, alas! long to be heroes); and then some eight or ten sleek mules,
in leather and braided string trappings, bearing Mexicans and Cubans
eager for the cenote.
Everything was sunshiny at first. The forest was exquisite in the early
morning sunlight. And then ... after a few miles a "change came o'er the
spirit of our dreams." Long before the hour came for broaching those
flagons of wine and sampling the contents of those ample baskets, "the
travellers had returned" to San José, a very dispirited train of men and
mules. The ruins were the fullest-grown, most phenomenally robust type
of archæological failure possible. The cenote was a small surface cave
with no suspicion of carvings or figures; the building was a
post-Conquest erection of absolutely no merit. Our humiliation was
complete. It was really quite a good thing that we were not alone with
that guide, or we might have been sorely tempted to avenge with our
revolvers the wrongs of hoodwinked archæology. With exquisite courtesy,
the administrator waded into the cenote cave in his eagerness to "save
our faces" and discover those obstinately invisible figures. But it was
all no good. It was obvious, as he turned his mule's head San
José-wards, he thought us fools, Probably, with Mr. Pickwick, he would
have gone further and declared us impostors. The pig was avenged!
Twenty miles southward from San José is the Company's port, half a dozen
huts and a jetty where provisions are landed, and such slender export of
chicle, as it is possible to make from the limited area of forest the
Indians permit the chicleros to work, is loaded. This is Puerto Morelos,
and, as we were now in the district where war is--despite all official
contradictions--actually in progress, it will be well here to tell
briefly the story of perhaps the most iniquitous attempt at race
extermination in modern times.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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