Of these temples not a trace now remains around San Miguel save at the
north end, where a path through a plantation of cocoanuts leads to such
a scene of vandalism as might be calculated to rouse the indignation of
even the Conservator of Monuments, if he remained awake long enough to
reach the spot. Here what had obviously been a minor temple has been
broken up and converted into a quarry. Heaps of stones, broken past
recognition, lie in a confused heap with smashed Indian pottery. The
largest stones have been carted into the village, and formed a pathetic
hotchpotch in a garden close to our hut. One of these was a remarkable
carving representing a figure of a god seated cross-legged, in true
Buddhist attitude, in a niche.
Stephens in 1842 merely landed in the bay of San Miguel, and made no
attempt at any survey of the island, and states its length quite
incorrectly as thirty miles. Cozumel is roughly rhomboidal in shape, and
from its extreme north-east to its extreme south-west is as near as can
be fifty-four miles. Its breadth varies, but on an average is about
fifteen miles. At each corner of the island there are ruins, those on
the north-east being the best preserved. The group consists of two
buildings still intact, one practically on the beach and the second a
few yards in the bush. They are but small, and might easily answer
Grijalva's description, being simply one-storeyed, unornamented with
hieroglyphics or figures. These ruined structures at each corner of the
island certainly suggest that in the years long past the coasts were
sacred and all landing was challenged.
At El Cedral we were told that there were ruins intact, and we made
arrangements at once to ride over there. The road is just the winding
coast-path which girdles the island. At no part more than a yard or two
wide, it leads at first over the flattened ledges of coral which divide
the beach from the woods. Then as the woods thicken to the water edge,
you ride through tunnels of greenery, where the road traverses the
wooded bases of the triangles of coral which at intervals jut out from
the shore like the spikes on a dog's collar, to emerge again on to level
stretches of golden sand, the palms bending rustlingly over its
glittering surface. Here and there, where the coral promontories lay
close together, were quiet bays, the trees growing far out on the little
capes making horseshoe-shaped green frames for the sapphire-blue water
lying almost pond-like in its stillness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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