First, we started to inspect the ruins. They were singularly
disappointing. The chief one was a two-roomed house standing on a mound
some 20 feet square. There were no statues, no bas-reliefs, no
hieroglyphics. It was desolate enough, but it had had, we learnt, its
modern uses; for five years back when a terrible hurricane had swept the
island the whole village had been blown away, and this Indian ruin was
for days the only shelter of the disconsolate villagers. Next, an almost
violent discussion occurred among our score or so of self-appointed
guides. It seemed on the point of developing into civil war, when we
luckily gathered that our old friends the garrapatas were the cause of
all the trouble. The villagers wanted to show us another ruin, but they
were so distressed at the thought that we should get covered with the
insects in our walk thither. It took some minutes to persuade them that
we were quite accustomed to this etcetera of travel in their country,
and then, with half a dozen men and boys whipping with twigs the bushes
on each side, and sweeping the path before us, we made our way through
the bush to a fine arched doorway hopelessly overgrown. Another such had
stood some yards away, relics evidently of a once considerable building.
There was nothing much worth seeing now, but we concealed our
disappointment as well as we could, for the El Cedralites were really so
friendly that we were ashamed to let them think that we viewed our
journey as a fiasco. As we returned into the village a little lad, after
a shy consultation with his father, sidled up to one of us and picked a
garrapatas off our shoulder, blushing at his boldness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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