Again and again in the woods we encountered the remnants of what
appeared to be a series of concentric walls. They were certainly
artificial, and their building must have entailed immense labour, for
the stones were often very large. These wall fragments resemble nothing
so much as a breastwork or hastily improvised fortification. We have two
theories about them. Either the island was originally very carefully
apportioned and the Holy of Holies was surrounded by a series of
complete walls, at distances from one another of about a mile and a
half, which served as a series of milestones for the pilgrims making
their way to the shrine from all the coasts of the island; or, on the
first alarm of the Spanish invasion, stone fortifications were roughly
improvised around Mecca so that, if the foreigner ventured into the
forests, each wall could be defended, thus delaying, if not actually
preventing, his reaching the temple. The first theory gains a certain
support from the fact that in some places we found suggestions of a
small ruined house attached to the wall, which might have been a kind of
tollhouse where the pilgrims paid a tribute to the Mayan hierarchy for
permission to pass.
The little finds we made in the shape of stone axes, pottery, beads, and
so on, were no solace to us for our disappointment. We had sought Mecca
in vain. We had spared neither money nor energy; and we had just this
comfort, that we had done more in the exploration of the island than
anybody before us. Still it was as beaten men that we returned after our
mosquito-ridden semi-starvation sojourn in the forest to San Miguel.
There the carnival was at its height. Little the Yucatecans recked of
ruined temples and Mayan problems. It was enough for them that the sun
shone, that they had habanero and anise to drink, and that there were
girls to dance with and make love to. Tin-tray music and a charivari of
drum and horn fought for mastery over wild whistlings and cat-callings
and the "loud laugh which spoke the vacant mind." The few horses of the
island had been requisitioned to carry ludicrously drunk Yucatecans in
paper caps and masks up and down the beach and round the plaza. Those
who could not ride found satisfaction sufficient for their senseless
mirth in running behind and shouting. We were hungry to escape from this
very unsatisfying gaiety, and we wanted to cross to the mainland where,
exactly opposite Cozumel, lie the ruins of Tuloom. But this proved
absolutely impracticable. As we have said in the previous chapter, the
Indians are encamped there, and, thanks to the brutal treatment they
have received, they shoot white men at sight. No boatman could be found
to cross to the shore, even though we offered such record prices as a
hundred dollars for the ten miles. We had sent a message down to
Ascension Bay to General Bravo telling him of our wish to land on the
coast hereabouts, and asking for the escort which had been promised us
by the officials in Mexico City.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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