"Who knows?" indeed! Who does not know what eggs, rice, and coffee will
cost? The impertinent frankness of the rascal's intentions was too much
for us. If he could have only got us to have eaten the food, he meant to
charge us about five times its value. With a curse at the limitless
dishonesty of Yucatecans, we left his filthy store, preferring hunger to
such a host. We walked fifty yards down the village, and then, as we
came to a likely looking Indian hut, we knocked at the door and asked
the woman, who came from the washing-tray to answer us, whether she
could give us any food. With a gentle apologetic smile she said she had
very little, but we were welcome to all that. She invited us in, gave us
the seats of honour in the hammocks. In a minute or two a pot of coffee
was steaming on the embers, she had made up the fire, had sent a child
out to the garden where the hens were to find an egg or two, and with
rice and tortillas served us a meal which, to our sharpened appetites,
was as tasty as a Guildhall banquet. When we had done and were leaving,
with many a shy smile and gesture of distaste for charging anything, she
asked ... twenty-five centavos--sixpence!
Here you have in epitome the Indian and the Yucatecan. The Indian woman
at the beginning of the village, who had toiled at dawn to bring from
the village well her household's daily supply of drinking-water, glad to
give all we asked for nothing. In the centre of the village the great
coarse, unwieldy Yucatecan shopman, the "snubnosed rogue" whose dirty,
mean mind was centred upon the wretched gains of his cheating life. And
then this kindly Indian hostess who gave us her all and asked but a
pittance in return for the clearing of her larders. Savages and slaves!
If we wrote ten thousand words they would surely not be so convincing as
this eloquent incident at Tabi.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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