We had brought with us to Merida several letters of introduction, and on
the Monday we presented one of these to a Yucatecan millionaire whom we
ran to earth in his office (he was mayor of the city) transacting
official business. After our preliminary greetings he said, "We
Yucatecans never ask anybody to our houses, but I should like you to see
the interior of a Yucatecan home. Therefore, will you breakfast with me
to-morrow at 11.30?" In fulfilment of this engagement we turned up the
next day in his patio at the appointed hour. The house is one of the
finest in Merida, and is so typical of the people as to be worth a short
description. Entering through the patio, bright with flowering shrubs,
with orange trees loaded with the golden fruit, with palms and
evergreens, you ascend a short flight of stone steps into a long central
tiled hall forming a kind of glorified verandah on two sides of the
courtyard. On the tiles are thrown a few cheap coloured mats. Ranged in
two rows facing each other are eight or ten American bentwood
rocking-chairs. On the walls hang a few oleographs. Here we were
received by our host in a linen suit, and his Señora, a celebrated
Meridian beauty, daintily dressed in a pink muslin frock, the mother, as
we afterwards discovered, of seven children, though she herself looked
little more than out of her teens. One or two other guests, male
relatives, all in cool linens, having arrived, our hosts lead the way to
the further end of the hall, out of which opens the dining-room. Not at
all such a dining-room as we English associate with the sacred
occupation of feeding. It is really nothing but another tiled annexe to
the hall with huge doorway, but without doors (there are no real doors
between the rooms in Yucatecan houses), at which the chickens and
turkeys from the back yard are congregating to see the fun, hopping,
cackling, out of the way of the half dozens of Indian women servants who
are pattering in with bare feet from the kitchen of which you catch a
glimpse down a vista of tiled yard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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