On the other side of the courtyard was a large washhouse with baths for
the men and big sinks in which the prison washing was done. Close by was
a blacksmith's shop where a score of men were engaged in all sorts of
iron work, much of it quite artistic, the chief job at the moment being
the designing of railings for the outside of the Penitenciaria, which
had been opened only a short time. Here the President told us that much
vigilance had to be exercised to prevent the more desperate men from
using their opportunities to make less innocent things than railings.
Only a few days before our visit one of the workmen had been found in
possession of a bloodthirsty-looking knife which he had manufactured
with the purpose possibly, as the President coolly said, of trying its
metal upon him. Close by, sitting in the garden, were a row of men busy
weaving sacks from henequen fibre. Crossing the yard, we were shown the
kitchens. Here were two or three large circular blocks of masonry, into
each of which were let several coppers or ovens, the fireplaces beneath.
The whole building had a businesslike and cleanly air, and a couple of
convicts were engaged in manufacturing a stew which had a very garlicky
Yucatecan smell. We complimented the President upon these kitchens,
which would certainly very favourably compare with those in even a
first-rate British barracks.
After having inspected an excellent miniature hospital which formed an
annexe in the rear of the gaol, we were taken by the President to his
private room, where from a safe he produced the prison books. These were
most interesting volumes from the criminologist's point of view. To each
prisoner was devoted a page, headed by a photograph of him, stripped to
the waist and with head shaved. Thereunder were entered details of his
crimes, birth, parentage, age, health, weight, and any physical
peculiarities. They do not go in for fingerprints in Yucatan. Two or
three facts struck us as we turned the pages of these truly human
documents. First, there appeared to be no Indians in the gaol. Secondly,
the clean-shaven presentments of the culprits emphasised to a startling
degree the physiognomical lowness of the Mexican type. The majority of
the men--certainly of those imprisoned for the more serious
offences--were Mexicans, and not Yucatecans. Some of them were mere
lads, but one and all had features which suggested the atavism of crime.
They were born murderers. And thirdly, as was logical enough,
four-fifths of the offences chronicled in these books were homicide or
robbery with violence. It was a curious sidelight into the condition of
even this peaceful corner of the Mexican Republic--"that purple land
where law secures not life." We were astonished, too, to notice that the
maximum penalty for murder appeared to be fifteen years' imprisonment.
The President explained that as a rule capital punishment was not
inflicted, but was reserved for parricides and murderers of the most
brutal kind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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