There is a Museum in Merida, a poor affair and badly housed in three
dark rooms; but there were several things we wanted to see specially, so
we made our way thither after leaving the prison. With some
difficulty--for our driver did not appear, with true Yucatecan
stupidity, to know that his city contained such a very unnecessary
adjunct--we ran the national treasure house to earth in a back street,
where a small brass plate on a decayed-looking doorway announced itself
as "El Museo." The director, a middle-aged Yucatecan, whose amiability
was only equalled by his archæological ignorance, was routed out of his
hammock by his little ten-year-old son who opened the door to us, and
sleepily proceeded to do the honours of the place. It is a great pity
that, with such limitless wealth and such boundless opportunities,
Merida has taken no pains to establish a Museum worthy of her position
as the capital city of the Egypt of the New World. What we saw, if it
had not been so sad, would have been really comic. Absolute confusion
reigned. There was no catalogue, the smiling director forming a
peripatetic one. Exhibits bore numbers which were thus meaningless to
every one but himself. It was Mexico Museum over again on a humbler
scale. Wretched pieces of Spanish carved stone-work from the interiors
of churches or from the façades of seventeenth-century houses, were
jumbled up with really marvellous pieces of Indian workmanship, figures
in bas-relief of gods and animals and warriors in feathered dress. But
the good director had not been content with making a hotchpotch such as
one sees in the shop of a dealer in marine stores and scrap-iron. He was
guilty of archæological crime, for on the top of a Spanish church pillar
he had actually cemented a carved Indian head from one of the temples.
In another corner a slab of stone, an eighteenth-century Spanish
coat-of-arms, had joined forces by means of cement with a wonderful
Indian frieze. The result was ludicrous in the extreme; but when we
expostulated with him, he smilingly explained that he had done it to
"prevent them from falling about"!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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