With the dawn we were up and out at El Castillo, to use the stupid
Spanish name of the great pyramid. It loses none of its majesty in the
daylight. It is a truncated pyramid close on 100 feet high, squared
almost to the four cardinal points, but not, we believe, orientated; the
northern side being the front because in that direction lies the Sacred
Cenote which we shall describe in a moment. The four base lines are
each, as near as can be, 200 feet long. On each of the four sides were
gigantic staircases. That on the west, still in fair preservation, up
which we must climb directly, is 37 feet wide. That on the north was 44,
but this latter and that on the east are so entirely destroyed as to be
barely traceable. The stairs on the south, about 40 feet wide, are much
broken and overgrown by cactus and shrub. The pyramid is built of rubble
and earth, and was completely faced with flat-hewn slabs of limestone
about 5 feet by 4 and 4 to 6 inches thick. In places these are still in
position. This is particularly the case with the south front. The four
corners were evidently once dressed with rounded stone blocks from top
to bottom.
It is difficult to exaggerate the magnificent appearance the mound must
have once presented. The stairways, which are so steep as to appear in
some places almost perpendicular, were balustraded, each balustrade
ending on the ground in those gigantic carved stone serpent-heads, the
jaws wide gaping, which we find again and again in Mayan ruins. The
climb of the 120 steps, on the average about 9 inches high and 8 broad,
is an undertaking before which any one not a practised Alpine climber
might be excused for quailing. Pausing for breath at the eightieth step
and looking downwards, your head reels; for the edges of the steps
appear to merge into one another by reason of their steepness, giving
one the feeling of being perched, fly-like, on the face of a grey cliff.
On reaching the top step, a few feet of platform separates you from the
temple. Climbing as you have been from the western side, the real
one-time grandeur of the sanctuary does not strike you. It is not the
front, and you must pass to the north, where was the state entrance to
the Holy of Holies. This is 20 feet wide and the lintel of the gigantic
doorway is supported by two pillars, 8-1/2 feet high, carved with a
snake pattern and once ending at the base in snakes' heads,
open-mouthed, the now empty eye-sockets having once been filled with
brilliantly painted stone or pieces of polished jade. These heads are
broken up, and only enough remained for the tutored eye to reconstruct
the whole. Entering, you are in a now roofless room running the full
length of the building east to west, 40 feet long and 6 broad. In front
of you is a second doorway, its massive door-posts carved with life-sized
figures of warriors in full ceremonial dress. By this you enter the
central room, 20 feet by 12. Two pillars, each 1 foot 10 inches square,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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