On July 18, the Franco-American forces (1st and 2nd American Divisions), under General Mangin, began their counter-offensive, which liberated the entire region as far as east of Pernant, including Missy-aux-Bois, Chaudun, and Vierzy. The latter village, which had been lost in the evening, was promptly re-taken by the Americans (2nd Division) after furious combats. From the 19th to the 21st the enemy offered desperate resistance to the south-west of Soissons. Engaging three fresh divisions, and after numerous counter-attacks, they succeeded in advancing to the east of Chaudun. Their success was short-lived, however, as on the 21st, General Mangin’s army broke down their resistance and reached the road from Soissons to Oulchy (N. 37). [Illustration] 3rd day.--SOISSONS--PARIS. _Via Laffaux, Fismes and Château-Thierry._ (_To visit Soissons, see the Michelin Illustrated Guide_: “=Soissons before and during the War.=”) The itineraries of the first two days will have taken the tourist to the extreme points reached by the German advance, and where the victorious Franco-American counter-offensive of July 18 developed along the western side of the Château-Thierry salient. The itinerary for the third day will first lead the tourist to the =Chemin-des-Dames=, where the German attack of May 27, 1918, which made the salient, began. The return journey passes through those parts of the battlefield to the north-east of Château-Thierry which marked the pursuit of the Germans by the Americans. [Illustration: COMMUNICATING TRENCH IN ONE OF THE STREETS OF CROUY IN 1916. At the back stands the Church. (_Compare with photo on next page taken in 1919._)] _On leaving Soissons, cross the bridge over the Aisne, then take the Avenue de Laon and N. 2. After_ =St. Paul=, _pass under the railway, then over the level-crossing before coming to_ =Crouy=, which suffered severely from the bombardment. The church is on the left, near the small river. On leaving the village, the road rises towards Crouy Plateau, passing between numerous military organizations and shelters in the hill-sides. [Illustration: REMAINS OF CROUY CHURCH. (_See photo (1916) on previous page._)] From the top of the hill the devastated Perrière Farm is visible on the left. There is a French cemetery opposite, on the right of the road. A trench, since filled in, ran the whole length of the road. _Cross the ruins_ of Pont Rouge Works. Numerous barbed wire entanglements stretch across the road. _About 100 yards before “milestone” 79, and rather more than half-a-mile before Laffaux Mill_, near a number of French graves, _take the road on the left_, which leads to the ruins of the village of =Laffaux=. The bombardment here was terrible, as the countless shell craters attest. Of the houses, only heaps of stones and débris remain. The ruins of the church are seen in profile above the ravine. [Illustration: RUINS OF PERRIÈRE FARM. (_On the left of N. 2, beyond Jouy, going towards Laon._)]