_Leave the church on the right, keep to the left, then take the road on the right (G. C. 3), which leads towards the valley of the Marne._ Very fine view along the zig-zag, down-hill road to the river. =Jaulgonne= is next reached. From Courmont to Jaulgonne the road runs between the woods of Fère (_to the west_) and Ris (_to the east_), in the middle of the region which the Americans conquered from July 22, 1918, onwards. [Illustration: CHARTÈVES CHURCH.] The fighting was extremely fierce throughout this region. To save their guns and organize their retreat the Germans stubbornly opposed the American advance. However, foot by foot, they were obliged to give way before the impetuous onrush of the Americans. From the 23rd to the 26th the latter, after a prolonged struggle, captured Charmel and the whole of the heights running parallel to the Marne. The German prisoners captured in Ris Wood declared that their orders were to hold out at all costs, to allow of a counter-attack by two divisions of the Guards. On the succeeding days [Illustration: RUINED CHURCH AT MONT-ST.-PÈRE.] the Americans continued to clear the northern part of the wood, and finally drove the enemy back to the Ourcq, which was crossed on the 29th. _Pass through_ Jaulgonne, _and keep straight on at the fork in the road on leaving the village_. The road follows the Marne. Pass through =Chartèves= (photo p. 125), _shortly after which_ =Mont-St.-Père= _is reached_. [Illustration: AMERICAN CEMETERY AT MONT-ST.-PÈRE (1918).] [Illustration: GLAND VILLAGE IN RUINS. The Church is in the background.] =Mont-St.-Père.=--_In the village, at the fork of G. C. 4 (on the right, leading to Epieds) and G. C. 3 (leading to Château-Thierry), take the former for about 200 yards to a road on the left, which leads to the top of the hill_, where stand the ruins of the church (photo p. 126) and castle. _Leaving the car, which should return to the Château-Thierry road and wait at the exit of Mont-St.-Père, at the point where the lane from the Church of Mont-St.-Père rejoins the road to Château-Thierry_, the tourist should go on foot to the church and castle. On September 3, 1914, a French infantry regiment, retreating southwards, found Mont-St.-Père occupied by the Germans. Forcing their way through at the point of the bayonet, they crossed the Marne, and after destroying the bridge, continued their retreat. _After admiring the_ =view=, _the tourist should descend the hill on the side opposite; on reaching the Château-Thierry road he will find his car waiting for him_. On the hillside to the right, on leaving Mont-St.-Père, there is an American cemetery (photo, p. 126). The road continues to follow the Marne. Pass through =Gland=, leaving the church on the left. =Brasles= is reached soon afterwards. The church is on the right. Throughout the whole of the region covered since leaving Jaulgonne the Americans fought with great bravery on both banks of the Marne.