The Apple: The Kansas Apple, the Big Red Apple; the Luscious, Red-Cheeked First Love of the Farmer's Boy; the Healthful, Hearty Heart of the Darling Dumpling. What It Is; How to Grow It; Its Commercial and Economic Importance; How to Utilize It.
Science
The Apple: The Kansas Apple, the Big Red Apple; the Luscious, Red-Cheeked First Love of the Farmer's Boy; the Healthful, Hearty Heart of the Darling Dumpling. What It Is; How to Grow It; Its Commercial and Economic Importance; How to Utilize It.
Apples
In the eastern third of the state hilltop or slope is preferred to
bottom land, but in the central and western portions bottom land is
preferred. The reason for this is obvious. Any good soil is
satisfactory, if subsoil is porous.
The favorite distance seems to be thirty-two feet east and west and
sixteen to twenty feet north and south, some putting peach or
early-bearing apples between, the wide way, to be cut out when they
crowd. This undoubtedly brings the quickest returns, but many believe it
robs the permanent trees of their future sustenance.
Twenty-four prefer one-year-old trees; 7 one to two years old; 153
two-year-old; 10 two- to three-year-old; 21 three-year-old; 3 want
four-year-old, and 59 give no age. It is only a matter of cost and
convenience. A one-year-old tree costs less and allows the would-be
orchardist to set more trees for a given amount of cash. The one- and
two-year-old trees require the removal of less earth, and are more
readily handled and planted. There is no reason why an apple tree three
inches in diameter cannot be transplanted as easily as an elm or maple.
A man is willing to set a few large shade-trees at a cost of one dollar
to five dollars per tree, but cannot feel that it is economy to set
orchard trees at as great individual expense.
"Whole-root grafts" is a misleading appellation, as it will be found to
be only a crown graft. Its advocates make great claims that are at
variance with the facts. There can scarcely be such a thing unless
grafted on a seedling without removal of such seedling from the earth.
Our best nurserymen prefer the second cut, about one and one-half to
three inches taken from the seedling root a couple of inches below the
crown. In any case the piece of root taken has little influence on the
future tree. All our ordinary varieties make roots from the scion, and
the original seedling root may be found--like the piece of potato we
plant--shriveled and useless in the midst of the new roots. The nature
of the root growth shows this plainly, as all its peculiarities will be
found to be a counterpart of the roots of the variety from which the
scion was cut. It is folly to pay any added price for so-called
"whole-root grafts."
A very great majority believe in thorough cultivation, at least for from
six to ten years; some during the life of the tree. Nearly all agree
that Indian corn is the best crop to grow in a young orchard; it shades
the ground, and protects from wind. The corn in a young orchard should
not be cut in the fall, neither should the stalks be pastured; let them
stand till spring as a partial protection; it pays.
Many parts of the state, especially the western half, believe windbreaks
on the south and west very valuable, if not quite necessary.
Forest-trees with the outside row or rows of Russian mulberries, and
perhaps an Osage orange hedge, seem to meet the general opinion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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