The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
referred to, p. 150). The corbels at the angles which are right angles
have the usual additional courses in the height. A bold ovolo moulding
runs round beneath the corbel-course, the object of which is to keep the
inner face of the machicolation well clear of the front of the wall, so
that stone balls or other missiles thrown down would run no risk of
being diverted from their course by striking any of the projections of
the rough-faced masonry with which the tower is built. The parapet is
provided with large embrasures, and the merlons or spaces between are
pierced with loops of the crossed shape adopted in the fourteenth
century.
The parapet wall partly carried on corbels is seen winding round the
summit of the wall of enceinte (_see_ Fig. 71), with steps where the
heights vary; and in the south-east angle of the inner courtyard
adjoining the ruined gateway from the outer to the inner courtyard,
there still stands the very interesting twelfth century chapel of the
castle.
This oratory is generally similar in design to the one within the castle
at Villeneuve (_ante_, Fig. 52). The doorway at the west end is
round-arched, and contains details which are remarkably characteristic
of Provence, the purely Roman egg and leaf enrichments being mixed with
dogtooth and other ornaments of Romanesque design. The small square
tower which crowns the west gable is peculiar, being more in the style
of the belfries further North and East, than those of the South.
From Tarascon a branch railway runs to St Remy (the Roman ruins at which
have already been described), and from that point the strange old town
of Les Baux may be reached.
LES BAUX.--This ancient but decayed fortress is one of the most
picturesque and remarkable objects in the district. It is situated on
the top of a rocky height (Fig. 72), not far from where the Alpines
begin to rise from the plain of the Rhone, over which it has a
commanding and extensive prospect. Formerly a considerable fortified
town, it is now deserted, save by a few wanderers and beggars, and
presents the melancholy appearance of an abandoned city, of which the
empty houses are fast falling into ruin. This, however, as we shall
hereafter notice, is by no means a solitary example of a Southern town
overtaken by a similar fate. But Les Baux has this striking peculiarity
to distinguish it, that it is a city _not built_, but excavated out of
the rock. It is not uncommon to find houses cut in the rock in several
parts of France, where a dry and soft formation renders such an
operation suitable, and, as is well known, rock-hewn temples, tombs, and
other buildings abound in Egypt, Syria, and the East. Possibly some of
the great chiefs of the family of Les Baux (who were distinguished
Crusaders) may have adopted the idea from examples they saw in the Holy
Land.
[Illustration: FIG. 72. FORTRESS OF LES BAUX.]
The town is now almost a heap of ruins, although some façades of good
Renaissance design still adorn the silent streets.
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