The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
At the south-east angle stands the great tower or keep (to the left in
the view), commanding the canal and the “place,” and overtopping the
tower of the Count, which stood opposite to it. This tower was built by
Archbishop Gilles Ascelin in 1318, and forms an independent redoubt. It
is four storys in height. The basement is circular internally, and, as
usual, has no openings to the exterior, being only reached from the
floor above by an aperture in the vault. The first floor is octagonal
internally and vaulted. It is intended for defence, and is provided with
passages in the thickness of the walls, from which diverging loopholes
command the exterior in all directions. The third floor is square
internally, and has been the living room, being furnished with windows
on three sides and a fireplace, and had a wooden ceiling. The top story
is also square, and is covered with a pointed vault. It has three
windows, and chambers in the wall provided with loops for defence. The
construction of the roof and angle turrets is somewhat remarkable. The
central platform of the roof is some feet lower than the parapet walk,
and is connected with it by a series of steps rising along each side.
The angle turrets are three storys in height, and access is obtained to
the different stages, 1st, from the platform roof; 2nd, from the parapet
walk; and 3rd, by steps up from the latter to the parapet on the top of
the turrets. The tower was fortified on its three angles next the
outside, with the above formidable turrets, which were probably further
armed with some kind of wooden machicolations in time of danger. The
fourth angle, next the inner courtyard, contained the staircase with a
watch turret carried up above it.
The other portions of the palace comprised an immense hall, and the
numerous living apartments of the archbishop and his retainers. The
entrance was by a long open passage well defended from high walls on
either side. Within the fortified enclosure were also the cloisters and
chapter house. These are of a somewhat late and cold design, dating from
1375. The roof, which is flat, formed an agreeable promenade within the
walls.
The Church of St Paul, beyond the canal, is an example of the mixture of
the Gothic and Southern styles. The piers are light and lofty, and
exhibit a Gothic character mixed with souvenirs of the heavier preceding
style, in the small and few windows, the “historied” caps, &c.
On the way between Narbonne and Perpignan ample opportunity is afforded,
as the railway runs along between the lengthy lagunes and through the
dreary salt marshes, of observing the process of silting up which has
here been in progress for centuries, and which has had such a marked
influence in changing the character of the country, and in affecting the
fortunes of the various cities which formerly flourished on the
prosperous banks of these inland seas, now so desolate and pestiferous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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